As
we were planning our 2023 Badlands trip, the hike around the Upper Paddock and
Upper Talkington trails made the top of our wish list. We had last done the
loop in 2011 and wanted to get out again to enjoy its scenery and abundant
wildlife. After spending a couple of days on the Maah Daah Hey Trail waiting
for the ground to dry following a rainstorm we were ready to tackle the last
long hike of the trip. 
Feral horses around the Scenic Loop Road.
The
South Unit Scenic Loop Road was still under repair following the 2019 slump
damage, so we had to drive the long way around. At TRNP its usually not the
traffic that slows you down, but the wildlife. We drove out in the spectacular
light of early morning past herds of bison and feral horses. At an hour when
every photo is a great one, we couldn’t resist several stops for pictures. The
horses behaved themselves and happily posed for pictures. The bison were much
less cooperative, with one small band occupying the roadway. We eventually wove
the rental car through the herd, though not without some grunting and snorting
from some of the bison.
Bison on the loop road.
We
parked at the Upper Talkington Trailhead, just below another herd of grazing bison.
The park, and my guide (ND Hiking Guide), describe the Upper Paddock
Creek and Upper Talkington trails as a 16 mile loop that also uses the Badlands
Spur and Rim trails. Together the NPS refers to this as the East Loop.
Typically, I split the loop into a shorter trip by hiking the Loop Road to Buck
Hill, and then descending cross country down Buck Hill to the Lower Paddock
Creek Trail. Jean also prefers the Buck Hill Route, with the exception of one
short steep pitch on the descent of Buck Hill.
The park does not have valet parking.
To
reach Buck Hill, we walked a half mile clockwise on the Loop Road and then 0.8
mile up the side road to Buck Hill. There isn’t much traffic around dawn on the
road in October. There is a short, paved trail to an overlook and bench on the
hilltop. Typically, we descend the south ridge of Buck Hill directly in line
with the Painted Canyon Visitor Center on the horizon, but this time we wanted
to avoid any steep descents, in case there would still be wet ground. Early on
Jean spotted the start of a gentle ramp leading east and we decided to try that
as a descent route off the hill. 
Hoodoo marking the end of the ridge from Buck Hill.
The
route worked wonderfully. We walked through some juniper, and past one
petrified tree stump to reach the creek bottom level without any technical
terrain. There were bison in the valley ahead of us, but we managed to weave to
the south side of a long butte to avoid disturbing them We passed another low butte anchored by a
distinctive hoodoo before emerging out on the valley floor.
Looking off to the Painted Canyon Visitor Center on the skyline.
Once
in the valley we headed south cross country, and mostly through open grassland.
Again, we aimed for the Painted Canyon VC on the skyline. We had an easy
crossing of the north branch of Paddock Creek, then a well worn bison trail
brought us to the intersection with both the Upper Paddock and Painted Canyon
trails and to the successful conclusion of the off trail portion of the hike.
Approaching a fossil location along Paddock Creek.
With
a beaten path and trail posts to follow we headed east up Paddock Creek. There
was a fossil wood site with some giant stumps that we barely remembered from
previous trips.
Petrified tree stump along Paddock Creek.
in
2011 we’d battled ravenous ticks racing up our legs like through hikers going
for a buffet. But with the cold weather they were thankfully long gone. This
was still prime bison country, especially for lone bulls.
Bull bison near Paddock Creek.
Near
the east end of the Paddock Creek Trail is Southeast Corner Spring. I’d often
been confused about its exact location; was it hidden in some suspiciously lush
trees along the trail or near some old, abandoned tanks? The NPS has done
better job marking the trail here and there is now a well beaten game trail
leading to the spring and its tanks where the NPS trail turns right up a small
ridge with a view down to the spring. Just beyond is a post marking the end of
Paddock Creek and the start of the Rim Trail. 
Small buttes below Paddock Creek.
The
temperature when we started the hike was 47F, and it hadn’t warmed up much. Now
we were exposed to the wind whipping across the grassland with no hope of
shelter for the next two miles. Trail markers on the Rim Trail are notoriously
short lived because without trees they are only available scratching posts on
the rim for bison. Consequently, hikers often take direct paths across the
grassland, rather than attempting to play hide and seek with the posts just to
follow the trail. This time we found most of the markers in place, and were
able to keep moving quickly to get back down out of the wind without getting
completely chilled. 
The trail in the southeast corner is next to I-94.
Once
off the rim we followed the Upper Talkington Trail back to our trailhead. The
trail soon enters a long prairie dog town, not Jean’s favorite habitat, but I
don’t mind the chirping of the dogs as they warned of our arrival. With the
posts in place this is easy scenic walking.
Even the natives need to stop for a break occasionally.
Towards
the end of the hike, we passed a young couple hiking with a little purse dog.
They mentioned two small prairie dog towns ahead which we passed close to the
Scenic Loop Road. I hadn’t noted either town previously, so the towns may mark
an expansion of the dog towns in the park. 
I walked right by this guy, but luckily Jean spotted it.
Back
at the car, the trailhead bison had moved across the road to graze, fortunately
without using the rental car to scratch as they passed it by. We packed up and
drove back to the Trappers Inn, with only a few stops to photograph more bison
and horses. 
Bison herd near the trailhead.
