Sunday, October 1, 2023

The Wolf Trail Hike, Little Missouri National Grassland, 10-1-2023

Sometimes getting to the trailhead is half the battle. One of my goals for our revised North Dakota hiking guidebook (NDGuidebook) was to have detailed descriptions of all the major new hiking trails in the Little Missouri National Grassland. I had under three weeks to make the trip, and needed to ride or hike the 47 miles of the Maah Daah Hey II, the Long X Trail, the Bennett-Cottonwood Loop, and the Ice Caves Trail, plus a bunch of national and state park trails. All that travelling made for a fun, but busy time. Of all the trails on that “to do” list, I only missed one, the Wolf Trail at the northern edge of the LMNG.

Jean at the start of the Wolf Trail.

The Wolf Trail was designed to provide a recreation option for the Watford City community, though it doesn’t seem like that idea caught on. The original plan was to tie the Wolf Trail into a trail that would be built alongside US 83 from north of the park to Watford City as that road was widened to four lanes. The massive construction project is well under way, but I’m not sure of the status of the roadside trail.

Trail head Sign.

The Wolf Trail was the last of the major LMNG trails to be built, and remains the least known and least used. On the day I first planned to scout it, I drove in from Watford City via County 30, only to find the two mile dirt access road too rutted and muddy for our then brand new Subaru. I was able to write only a brief synopsis of the Wolf for the guide, but kept it on my list for future visits.

In the meantime, the Wolf Trail sat little used and unmaintained. While Jean and I were planning our 2023 visit to the area, I saw a Facebook post indicating that the LMNG had mowed the Wolf Trail that summer. The timing was perfect, and the Wolf Trail was back on the top of my list. But I soon realized that an out and back hike on the full 8.75 miles would be too much for us in a single trip, and settled on hiking just the north half of the trail from the LMNG north boundary down to the boundary with the North Unit of TRNP. 

Wolf Trail marker post.

But our 2023 trip started in the window where an Oct 1 US Government shutdown was expected. We spent our first two days in TRNP, assuming that the LMNG would stay open even if the government shut down closed the park. Coming off a hike in the North Unit we talked with a NPS ranger who had hiked the start of the Wolf Trail, and reported it was in great condition. We slotted the Wolf Trail for Oct 1.

Luckily for us the dirt two mile access road was in good shape this time, and we arrived at the Trailhead with our rental car in perfect shape! Only four years late, but we were finally there. To the north of us lay the busy oil field around Watford City, while to the south was the quiet grassland.

The oil field plant across the road from the trailhead.

The start of the Wolf Trail is it’s least interesting section, just a mowed path over some much abused grassland with widely scattered wooden trail posts. About a half mile in we crossed some old ranch roads by a stock tank and quiet little prairie dog town. Migrating geese flew a V-formation above us. But the route beyond was a little clearer and we reached the edge of a cluster of small buttes after a mile.  

Badlands along the trail.

This section was surprisingly nice as it wandered through eroded lignite and bentonite similar to much of the TRNP North Unit. Next up was some mid-slope forest dotted with small aspens where we walked below trees whose shade would surely be a blessing in summer. Our ranger friend had described the trail as getting overgrown near where she turned around, so we were a bit nervous about being able to go much further on as the trail got a little brushy. 

Migration.

But soon the trail punched through the forest up to the rim of the grassland. Here the mowing resumed, presumably facilitated by a two track road just above us. With continued views of the badlands below, we eventually popped out on the grassland at two track LMNG Road 851, just a little more than three miles in. We hiked a bit more along the grassland rim then followed Road 851 to the four mile mark where the trail turned west, and continued across a self-closing gate at the end of our hike. 

Our turnaround point.

Our return hike was a pleasant review of the features we had seen on the outbound leg. My newer GPS had failed early in the hike out, but my electronics behaved themselves on the return allowing me to enjoy the scenery better.

Back through the aspens.

The highpoint was being serenaded by a coyote hidden somewhere in the grasses around the small stock pond just southeast of the trailhead. But we never could spot our songster, just maybe it was a phantom wolf rewarding our efforts to finally hike its namesake trail.

Though I wasn’t able to hike the entire Wolf Trail, we went far enough for me to write a description of the hike to add to my ongoing book manuscript. And more importantly the hike was interesting enough for Jean to be on board for another trip, knowing that this would not be just a boring hike across the grassland.