Fall Colors in Red River Gorge 11-2-21

Our spring trip to Red River Gorge (post) was so much fun that the first thing we did once we got back home was to book another stay. We wanted to hit the fall colors, prime time in the gorge, but starting to fade back home. We thought in early November the leaves might have turned color, but not have fallen so thickly that they would obscure the trails and routes we hoped to follow. As it  turned out, we hit the weather about as well as possible; dry, but cold, and with the leaves at peak color.

My goal was to explore some new areas in the gorge both on and off trail. In the spring we’d done our first off trail gorge trips based off information we had gotten from talking to fellow hikers. It seemed that publication of maps and guidebooks describing the unofficial trails, along with a bounty of information online, had sparked an explosion of off-trail hiking in the gorge. Many of the off trail routes were well beaten in, and both the hikers we met and the sources that described them, often referred to them as “trails” even though they are not part of the official USFS system. In Smokies terms they would often be called “manways”, a term for abandoned trails and roads and/or user created paths. These unsigned and unmarked routes were a combination of short journeys to campsites or overlooks, and longer trips to overlooks and arches ignored by the official trail system. We were using a copy of the OutrageGIS RRG map, descriptions in the Hinterlands book, and some online sources to find our way.

Jailhouse Rock Manway 11-2-21, 7 miles

For our first trip we decided to explore the Jailhouse Rock Manway from the Auxier Ridge Trailhead. As a warmup) we decided to look for the Arch of Triumph just off the old road section of the Double Arch Trail. The entry was easy to spot and passed through two large campsites. The manway went over the top of the arch, but the arch viewpoint was easy to spot. Triumph is a smaller arch by RRG standards but still a pretty one and well worth the short side trip to visit.

The Arch of Triumph.

We also found the start of the Jailhouse Rock Manway easy to spot with the remains of an old USFS gate nearby. This route also bypassed several appealing, but dry, campsites as it extended out a ridgeline with great views of Star Gap and Auxier ridges. As seems to be our habit we encountered another couple returning form the overlook who gave us some handy tips on the route finding, and some suggestions on other places to go in the gorge. Just after talking with the couple, we were passed by a small group of guys, also heading for the Rock.

Fall Colors.

In the middle of the manway the ridgetop has begun to erode away leaving modest scrambles down to a saddle and then back up to the ridgeline. All along there are campsites scattered about and short side paths leading to overlooks. Near the end we passed the group of guys heading back along the route looking for a larger spot for lunch, leaving the overlook to Jean and I. We enjoyed the views of Auxier Ridge and Courthouse Rock, but couldn’t spot Double Arch across the valley. Looking at the map at lunch I realized that we’d passed Jailhouse Rock, and were at an unnamed overlook at the north end of the ridge.

View to Courthouse Rock.

On our return we found the Jailhouse Rock turn (obscured by a large campsite) and enjoyed even broader views of Auxier Ridge from the larger overlook. We met the group of guys again and persuaded then to head out the short way to the main overlook.

Vista from Jailhouse Rock.

Sometimes I’m not one to know when to stop, so on our return I suggested we go a short way out the Star Gap Manway. We passed several groups going to the arch here, before reaching a spot used as an appliance dump dating back to when the land had been privately owned. The dump marks an important junction, and we headed south from there to an overlook known for its sunsets. It was too early in the day for sunset, but we did enjoy more great fall colors. From there it was back to the lodge at Natural Bridge for the evening.

Old appliance dump.

Evening Overlook.

11-3-21 Indian Staircase Area, 9.0 miles

The Indian Staircase is one of the better known off trail routes in the gorge, despite its reputation for a steep section of exposed climbing. We knew of a bypass to the stairs (and you can also take the trail around) and knew we had plenty of time to retreat and take the bypass if the climbing got too steep. Our drive over was spectacular, much of KY 715 in the gorge was bathed in early morning light with the fall colors at their peak.

We started at the Bison Way TH and got into trouble right away. Just before Sargent Branch the trail forked where our USFS map indicated there was a junction with the Sheltowee Trace. We went left and the trail petered out. Then we went right and saw no STT blazes. We went back to the left fork and still couldn’t follow it. Finally, we went further on the right fork and across the creek to the signed Bison Way/STT junction. The junction was wrong in the USFS map! I should have brought along a copy of my “50 Hikes in KY”, the Bison Way Trail was also part of one of my book loops.

Approaching the staircase.

Once on the Trace it was easy to find the base of the Stairs and the bypass. The Indian Stairs MW steepened considerably as it approached the canyon rim. There were a number of short climbs up thick sandstone beds, and finally we were blocked by one ledge too high for Jean. Despite being close to the top, but not quite to the exposed section, we wisely turned around. The bypass proved to have a few scramble steps as well, but none too high or exposed. The junction of the bypass and main route was at a large overlook with good views of the canyon rim surrounding Sargent Branch.

View from the top of the staircase.

Not too far beyond the junction was a large rock house known by variations on the name Indian Council Rock House. This was a long, tall, but shallow rock house that is similar to Indian Rock House in Pickett SP. We had lunch there and chatted with two other hikers.

Bluffs surrounding the rim of the canyon.

Indian Council Rock House.

Next up was an unexpected treat. The Manway continued to circle the canyon rim with awesome views of the bluffs on the far side. Between the great views and nearby cliffs some concentration was needed. We passed through several beautiful campsites to finally rejoin the STT. Though we were disappointed to miss the staircase, I thought it worthwhile to continue the hike over to Cloudsplitter. The next section of easy cruising on the STT was Jean’s favorite of the trip, it turns out she was looking for a low challenge easy outing! We found the base of the Cloudsplitter manway and started up the deeply eroded trail to the top of the ridge. Not much further we were stymied by a rock tower with several ratty looking ropes dangling off various 4^th class cracks. Might as well have another snack if we weren’t making the top.

Badly eroded trail.

Soon we heard another hiker approach and were surprised to see a USFS ranger. Apparently social media is the bane of their existence, as information about places like Cloudsplitter were being posted online attracting inexperienced and inconsiderate hikers. The ranger was there to remove the rope to discourage folks from climbing. We talked a good while and got some appreciation for the troubles in managing such a heavily visited area.

Indian Arch.

On our return we decided to skip an attempt on Adena Arch to save time, but did visit Indian Arch which is right on the STT.

11-4-21 Natural Bridge SP, Balanced Rock-Rock Garden Loop, 3.7 miles

We split our last day into two hikes. At Natural Bridge we started up the Balanced Rock/STT to the top of the Bridge. We were the first up that day and headed over to Lookout Point. Coming back, we ran into our friend Stephanie who had been backpacking near Swift Camp Creek. Our return leg on the Rock Garden Trail offered an extensive “base of the cliffs” walk that showcases all the beauty of the rocky gorge.

Skylift at Natural Bridge.

 

Natural Bridge from Lookout Point.

Grays Arch, 3.2 miles

On our spring visit, we’d missed a close up view of Grays Arch because the approach trail was closed due to a small landslide. The trail was fixed with a sturdy looking reinforced ramp so we could climb to a point below the arch. Even with full access it is a tough arch to photograph; harsh afternoon light and thick vegetation offer few unobstructed views, but at least we got to see it in person. On the return, I was tempted to lead us around the loop to D Boon Hut, but with the long drive to Knoxville ahead we saved that trip for another visit.

Grays Arch from below.

Closer view of Grays Arch.