Sometimes in hike planning you get lucky. In 2023, after 15
years away, we returned to the Black Hills. We had several favorite hikes we
wanted to revisit, and some new trails to try, but after that long a time it
was easy to assume much of our knowledge would be out of date. We made sure to
stop by the new Visitors Center at Custer State Park when we arrived. After
getting info on the new Barnes Canyon hike, and on the oldies we would revisit,
we asked the helpful volunteer behind the table about his favorite hikes. We
could tell he was fit from hiking and sure enough he knew the trails. He mentioned
that one of his favorite hikes was the Galena Horse Trail connecting the Lovers
Leap Trail to the Badger Clark Road.
We were skeptical since many of the horse trails at Custer are pounded into submission by heavy horse traffic, their surfaces rocky, eroded, and littered with loose rock. He assured us that the Galena Trail was little used by horses (probably because there are no corrals at either end), and had great footing. He described the narrow canyon as especially scenic, and the creek as small and pretty. The only caveat was there are 20-odd creek crossings.
When we came back in 2024 we planned to hike the Lovers Leap Trail, and add on an out and back hike on the Galena Trail. Unfortunately, on that trip Jean had brought only her hiking boots. After only two crossings we realized that there would be too many crossing for her to either rock hop the creek or change shoes at every one. But the little creek was lovely and its canyon narrow and cozy, and we were eager to see its whole length. So, the hike was postponed to 2025, when she brought a pair of running shoes that could be used for the multiple creek fords.
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| The west end of the Galena Trail on CSP Road #9. |
Our first day in the Hills, looked rainy so we waited for day 2. We drove in via the Badger Clark Road (CSP 9) to the trailhead used for the west end of the Barnes Canyon Trail and for Centennial Trail access. Just past the TH, the road is signed as restricted where it enters an old building complex that was formerly a youth camp, but now looks like employee housing. We drove back to the TH, parked, and hiked back down the road. At our slower pace we saw the small sign signaling the start of the trail which would bypass around the buildings to join Galena Creek farther downstream.
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| Bison at start of Galena Trail. |
Immediately off the road at 0.2 mile, we spied a lone bull bison resting in the shade of a pine directly on the trail. We swung well in the tress to go around him and continued the gentle climb on an old gravel road. The road led past a fenced facility on the hilltop at right (probably for water treatment). At a low saddle the trail forked right from the road onto a single track. At 0.8 mile the trail returned to Galena Creek within sight of the last buildings in the restricted area. The trail follows an obvious tread, and is marked with the usual blue diamond blazes for CSP. A few horse riders use the trail, but the main use seems to be hikers.
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| Iris near the start of the trail. |
In early season the hike begins with a dash of wildflowers
including dwarf iris and shooting stars. The canyon walls are the Precambrian
granite of the core of the southern Black Hills. Galena Creek meanders down the
narrow valley while the trail unfettered by bridges crosses a total of 21
times. Luckily the crossings are usually just a few steps wide and only ankle
to shin deep. Very agile hikers, or those in late season, could likely make
many of the crossings with dry feet.
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| More trailside flowers. |
At times Custer Park can seem more like a manicured urban park with its well-spaced pines, lush grassy meadows, and sparse underbrush. The ground is often as clear as if to invite hikers to wander anywhere. But Galena Creek maintains its wild character, and the canyon seems a private oasis. The creek is often in view and serves as a burbling companion for quiet hikers.
At 2.4 miles a small tributary joins on the left in a small grassy park. After 3.3 miles the trail ends at an unsigned intersection with the Lovers Leap Trail. Ahead on Lovers Leap to the left it 2.1 miles along Galena Creek to Lovers Leap Trailhead on US 16A, and to the right it is 1.7 miles up and over Lovers Leap to the same trailhead. Retrace your steps for another 3.3 miles to return to the Barnes Canyon West Trailhead.
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| Our bison friend still guarding the trail. |
Access: From Custer drive east on U.S. 16A to Custer State Park. Continue east on U.S. 16A past Legion Lake and SD 87 to paved Custer State Park Road 9. Turn right and drive 2.0 miles south to the West Barnes Canyon (aka Centennial Trail) Trailhead on the right. The trailhead has a gravel lot and signboard. The road ahead to a housing complex is restricted.
