Kentucky’s
Cumberland Falls SP is just far enough away that a visit there seems like a
special treat. It has long been a favorite retreat for us for those “just want
to get out of town” trips (Here). Most visitors come
for a stay at the Lodge and to view the mighty waterfall, but we know there’s
also a weekend worthy trail system. Spring was beginning to fade in Knoxville,
and we hoped to catch up with some of the better blooms by heading a bit farther
north.
Cumberland Falls.
4-28-25,
Blue Bend Loop
Our
first hike was around the 4.7 mile Blue Bend Loop. Not far from the trailhead
we encountered another couple who told us there were few flowers in bloom on
the trail ahead. They were right, the pickings were slim for ridge top flowers,
at these elevations the trees were fully budded out. And as it turned out, they
were the only other hikers we saw on the trip. But as we descended to the river
the soil was moister, the flowers more abundant, and we passed through the
sheer cliff bands separating the uplands from the river bottom. We stopped for
lunch at the tip of Blue Bend underneath a mighty wall of sandstone. 
Crack in Rock at Blue Bend.
The
last half of the hike follows the Sheltowee Trace Trail downstream to Cumberland
Falls. The quiet river beside the trail gives little warning of the massive
drop ahead. We closed the loop surprised by the day’s heat and humidity, but at
least we had dodged the scattered showers featured in the weather forecast.
Lunchtime at the rock house.
The
Lodge area at Cumberland Falls hosts a network of short trails. I used Trail 4
(CCC Trail) and Trail 12 (Wildflower Trail) to make a two mile trail run. Trail
12 confirmed we were well after peak wildflowers, But I thought Trail 12
traversed enough rock formations that it deserved to be renamed for its rocky
bluffs.
Dwarf Crested Iris.
4-29-25,
Cumberland River Loop
The
Cumberland River Loop is the longest (9.0 mi.) loop at CFSP, so we chose it for
our middle day, when we’d have no driving to do. We hiked from the Lodge area
to the falls on Trail 6 and were the first arrivals for the morning. 
Morning at Cumberland Falls.
We
took advantage of the morning light for some photos, then headed upstream along
the river on the opposite side from Blue Bend. This is usually the best flower
watching in the park. We didn’t see large numbers of flowers, though the
diversity was still good.
White Trillium.
Next
was the climb up to Pinnacle Knob Tower, located about halfway around the loop,
and our target for a lunch break. The tower was once open for viewing, but is
now closed, except to organized groups from the state park. We found a small
overlook and bench on a short side trail just below the tower. The overlook was
small consolation. The view was just a sea of green, and we couldn’t make out
any park features underneath the dense tree canopy. 
Pinnacle Knob Tower.
My
favorite part of the loop is the far side. Here you hike upstream along the river,
which is now winding through the canyon it carved as the falls migrated upstream
over time. The erosion left huge boulders strewn in the rivers for boaters to
navigate, and layers of thick sandstone forming the canyon rim with cliffs,
rock houses, and narrow passages for the hiker to traverse. The geology would
be enough to keep me coming back, but it’s not all. There are some great flower
displays if you’re lucky enough to spot them.
Laurel ready to bloom.
The
one downside here is the trail conditions. This trail is simultaneously the
Cumberland River Loop, part of the Moonbow Trail, and part of the Sheltowee
Trace Trail. As such it seems to get a lot of inexperienced hikers. There are a
number of social trails ranching off the main path, and often the designated
trail is tough to determine. Additionally, the map has an error, omitting a
short piece of former Trail 7 which was a bypass for the Moonbow/Sheltowee Trail
in high water. The Moonbow/Sheltowee now follows the entire former bypass and
the old route is abandoned. This leaves tired hikers working hard to stay on
route when they should be enjoying the end of a fantastic hike. Luckily, Jean
and I remembered this situation from our last trip in 2021, and we never got
too far off course. 
Pink Lady Slipper.
The
payoff for the loop is another stroll past the overlooks below Cumberland Falls
in the developed area. After we got another set of pictures we were happy to
discover the snack bar was open for the season, and already stocked with soft
serve ice cream. That left just a short climb on Trail 6 back to the Lodge
area, and then a clean up before dinner at the Lodge. 
Pink Lady Slippers.
4-30-25,
Eagle Falls
We
left our shortest (2.2 mi.) hike for the drive home day. Once again we were out
early and had the trail to ourselves. The Eagle Falls Trail is mostly used by
those looking to photograph Cumberlands Falls from above and looking towards
the developed area. When we first visited the park there were several overlooks
just a short way down the trail, but time has worn those away and the trail has
been rerouted to a safer, but less scenic, course.
Eagle Falls.
On
the way to the one remaining overlook, we took a side trail to visit a CCC-era
trail shelter that with some judicious trimming could also provide a good view
of the falls. The remaining fenced overlook is just past the start of the
trail’s loop portion. We took pictures there and then walked the side trail down
to Eagle Falls. 
Cumberland Falls from the overlook.
The
descent to Eagle Falls involves stone steps, metal ladders, and a lot of
careful stepping. It’s worth it though for the close in view of Eagle Falls at
it tumbles out of a narrow canyon nearly right into the river. In contrast to
the bigger Cumberland Falls and river, at Eagle Falls we could tell the recent
rains had pushed the creek flows up. Most similar waterfalls in the Cumberlands
trickle down from one level to the next, Eagle Falls was gushing.
The
remainder of the loop features some scenic cliff bands along with a view of
Eagle Creek, pre-falls.
Cumberland Falls.
After
checking out of our room and grabbing a snack, we hiked Trail 6 down to the
river for one more view an another 2.3 mile. Cumberland Falls could be the
signature sight for a much larger park, it would be a shame to take it for
granted.
Azalea in bloom.
