8-15-24, Lone
Star & Upper Geyser Basin 
Howard Eaton Trailhead Map.
For
the Old Faithful section of our trip we hoped to do easy hikes from the Inn
followed up with tours through the Upper Geyser Basin in the evenings. Lone
Star is one of our favorite hikes and we stopped by the VC in the evening for
guidance on finding the Howard Eaton TH across the highway from the Village. But
the rangers didn’t know about the trail and cautioned us against hiking it because
they thought we would have to hike along the road.
Lone Star Geyser erupting.
But
the next morning we walked across the street to the Xanterra dorm area and
easily found the start of the trail on the left marked by the orange ski trail
blazes. (just split left on the gravel once across the road, and don’t continue
on the concrete path). We’d had to do a lot of gear sorting, and didn’t get an
early start for this trip, but I still wore a wicker and hoodie in the morning chill. 
Lone Star Geyser erupting.
The
Howard Eaton Trail is a forest hike, but has an easy grade and goes through a pretty
area. We saw one pair of backpackers hiking out. Lone Star erupts on a three
hour cycle and we had no idea where in the cycle it was. So, we were happy to
see two parties waiting at the site. The guide from one of the groups told us
the eruption was ~30 minutes off, but before we could get settled in it
started. First there was a small pulse, then a 30’ column of water, gradually
changing to a loud steam phase. The geyser isn’t as tall, or as regular, but I
think it is more impressive than Old Faithful. The eruption lasted 25 minutes.
The guided party reported that there had been no pre-eruption activity. We’ve
seen Lone Star several times now and have always arrived just before the
eruption. Being so lucky with the geyser made up for all the soggy gear and rainy
hiking we’d been having.
Lone Star erupting.
Two
separate groups arrived just after the eruption, one was backpacking and
planned to stay for the next eruption. Jean and I did the short side trip to
Campsie 0A1 on the return, just to confirm that 0A1 was an attractive campsite.
By the end of the hike, I was stripped down to a T-shirt for nearly the first
time on the trip. 
The crowd waiting for an eruption of Old Faithful.
Back
at the village we stopped at the Snow Lodge to get caught up on messages, then
hit our room for an afternoon nap. We decided to eat in, and Jean boiled up a freeze
dried dinner with mashed potatoes that we ate on the breezeway while waiting
for an Old Faithful eruption. We had a long chat with a high school grad
working at the Inn. 
Old Faithful erupting.
None
of the predicable geysers were expected to erupt that evening, but we hiked Geyser
Hill out to Castle and back. Sawmill was erupting modestly, but it’s just the
mass of activity that makes the upper basin so unique. 
The Old Faithful Inn.
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| Sawmill Geyser Erupting. |
8-16-24
Mystic Falls
Our
goal was to hike out to the Mystic Falls loop and get a look at Biscuit Basin.
Biscuit had a hydrothermal eruption (captured on film) earlier in the year and
was still closed. We had a cold foggy start. Jean bandaged up the hamburger on
my right heel. We could still access Mystic by taking the bike trail over from
Daisy Geyser, after circling that group. The bike trail brought us to the
Mystic Falls Trail, just where it exits the Biscuit Loop. 
Mystic Falls from below.
Mystic
Falls is in three tiers, about 100’ high, the same height as the Upper Falls of
the Yellowstone, though the Little Firehole has much less flow. I was still
wearing long pants, a wicker, and the gray hoodie. The trail tough to find
after both the falls viewpoint and the main overlook. A few more blazes at both
spots would help. The climb to the overlook is short, but steep. 
Mystic Falls.
The
overlook is fantastic and spans almost the entire Upper Basin. We could see the
damage from the Biscuit Basin explosion clearly; a section of damaged boardwalk
and handrails, and a large debris field of dark “biscuits” thrown out of the
throat of the geyser when it exploded. (the NPS located the explosion at Black
Diamond Pool). Luckily, most of the debris went safely away from the boardwalk.
The Upper Geyser Basin from Mystic Overlook.
https://www.nps.gov/yell/learn/news/240723.htm
On
the return hike we saw the end of an eruption of Daisy Geyser. We also did a
side to trip to Morning Glory Pool (crowded!) and looped around Riverside Geyser
(which we hoped to see erupt later in the trip). Next we viewed another
eruption of Old Faithful. 
Close up of Biscuit Basin.
After
dinner we checked in at the VC and got good info on our planned hike to Mallard
Lake.
From Mystic overlook.
Daisy
was predicted for 3:52 and Riverside for 4:05, so we had a busy evening. We
left late for Daisy, but there was a crowd there when we arrived. 
Grotto Geyser.
Daisy
eruptions are 3-4 minutes long and 40-50’ high, so we stayed for the full
event, then sprinted over to Riverside. Despite a little flat out running we
missed the start, but still saw most of the 12-15 minutes water phase. 
Morning Glory Pool.
Daisy in Eruption
Riverside Geyser.
8-17-24
Mallard Lake
The
evening before I got a little tickle in the back of my throat that was the
first indication of a positive test for Covid-19. The next morning, I felt just
a little stuffed up and had a minor sore throat. We bought cough drops and flu
meds and headed off for an easy hike to Mallard Lake. Mallard starts in back of
the Old Faithful Lodge giving us our third car free day in a row. 
Heading for Mallard Lake.
The
trail is wide and well-marked for winter skiing. I made a note here that there
are not any blazes on the hiking trails in Yellowstone. We saw three parties on
the trail, including two solo hikers, a rarity for bear country. The backpacker
really liked CS 0B2, so we planned an early lunch there. Most of the hike was
in open forest, pretty, but rather unremarkable.
Arriving at campsite 0B2.
The
campsite was on the end of a small peninsula into the lake and beautifully
sited. It would be a good alternative for an easy in site. We lounged around
and explored the other sites. 0B3 was OK, but 0B4 was tiny and lacked a decent
cook area.
The view from 0B2.
I
was tired by the time we returned to the Inn, but not unexpectedly so for two
solid weeks of hiking. I was also losing my appetite and had a stronger sinus
headache. It took a long nap and another dose of the flu meds to get me out for
dinner and back into the geyser basin. My symptoms would eventually include
chills and hot flashes. 
Castle Geyser.
We
had an early dinner in the lodge cafeteria (never crowded, but mediocre food)
and watched Old Faithful erupt from inside. I took a post dinner nap then we
headed out for a 4:45 eruption of Castle The eruption was a little late, but
started with 30’ water jets that eventually reached 40-50’ high. The water
phase lasted about 18 minutes with a ~22 minute steam phase alternating with
water jets. This one threw out a lot of water, but the sky behind was a flat
gray and the eruption didn’t jump out in our pictures.
An eruption of Lion Geyser.
On
the walk back we saw Lion erupt from a distance and also saw two bison grazing
on the lawn of the general store. 
Bison grazing by the general store.
8-18-24
This
was more of a travel day. We wanted to stop at a few places on the way over to
Cooke City, where we would prepare for our last hike of the trip, into the
Beartooth. I had still not licked my flu, though the meds let me feel better.
Early morning in the Upper Basin.
We
intended to start with a quick trip around the upper basin but ended up in the
predicted window for Grand Geyser. Grand made us wait a bit, but it was worth
it with 12 minutes of a 50’ mixed water and steam. The sky again was overcast,
so not great photos. 
Approaching Grand Geyser.
We
then sat again for another eruption of Old Faithful. After the eruption we ran into
our friends from Taiwan who were now staying at the Village. We again chatted a
while about our various adventures. We were able to donate some unused gear and
food at the Inn bellhop station and headed off for Grand Prismatic Pool on the
advice of Joseph and Dahlin. 
Grand Geyser erupts!
For
Grand Prismatic we parked at Fairy Falls and took the relatively new spur to
the overlook above the pool. This was a crowded route, and blasted by the sun,
but worth it for a better view of the pool than is possible from up close.
A classic Old Faithful eruption.
Our
final stop was at Artist Paint Pots, a trail I did not recall having hiked.
Grand Prismatic Spring.
The
paint pots were just OK, and the facility full, so maybe after two weeks in the
park we were getting jaded, Driving around Mt Washburn we viewed a small herd
of bighorn sheep on the slope above us, our first sheep siting of the trip. The
bison in the Lamar Valley posed no delays and the traffic was easy the rest of
the way to Cooke City, where we had another room in the Super 8. 
The Artists Paint Pots.
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| Bighorn Sheep on the slope of Mt Washburn. |
