Three
days into our Black Hills trip we had not yet hiked in Custer State Park. At
the top of my Custer list was Sunday Gulch, a trail I had not hiked since the
1990s. In some years the gulch holds snow and ice into the summer, but we
learned at the visitors center that the trail was open for 2024. We’d seen
crowds at the Sylvan Lake Day Use area, so made sure to arrive early.
Morning light on Sylvan Lake.
The
Sunday Gulch and Sylvan Lakeshore trails are two loops connected like a Figure
8. Otherwise, the trails couldn’t be much different. The Lakeshore Trail is a
gentle gravel path leading about a mile around the lake. Sunday Gulch is the
scene of numerous rescues of stranded hikers. The gulch is steep, bouldery,
catches little sun, and holds its winter snow. The start of the trail closely
follows a small stream that occasionally spills over into the trail. The tricky
part of the trail is partly paved, and has steps, walkways, and handrails.
Nevertheless, it is an easy place to get stuck, especially of you are expecting
something as easy as the Lakeshore Trail. But experienced hikers will have no
trouble, as long as they keep their wits about them. 
The descent into Sunday Gulch.
We
caught some early morning light starting around the lake. At the far end near
the dam the connector between the Lakeshore and Sunday Gulch was not signed,
but once in a long narrow crack, the way is obvious. Some signs at the base of
the dam warn novices of the potential difficulties ahead.
Sunday Gulch.
The
hike through the upper gulch is amazing. You start in a group of spires called
“The Outlets” by climbers, and then pass through “Middle Earth.” The trail
twists through the narrow gulch around massive boulders and below sheer granite
walls. Spires and towers of all shapes and sizes crowd around a magical
landscape. It’s a place as magnificent as any in the Black Hills. The amazing
section extends only a quarter mile, but the gaping and gawking make it last
much longer. After a brief retreat to the forest, the trail enters a second,
smaller spire area. 
Sunday Gulch flowing across the trail.
The
climb out is much less exciting, mostly following a utility corridor alongside
the highway. We ran into a couple of experienced Black Hills hikers who were
thrilled to finally be on Sunday Gulch, after several earlier attempts were
scuttled due to foul weather. Towards the end of the loop there is a final
scenic section where the trail reenters Middle Earth and the Outlets. 
The spires of Middle Earth from the back side of the loop.
I
had some 1980s era detailed notes that didn’t quite match the end of the loop,
and wondered if CSP had since made a slight relocation to keep the trail from
wandering through the developed area around Sylvan Lake Lodge. As with the
Lovers Leap and Stockade Lake trails to follow, it appears that CSP has been
doing some improvements to their trails to keep them away from park roads.
The
rest of the day was devoted to guidebook activities. For the first time we
hiked the Cairn Trail, a half mile loop at the Outdoor Center. Then we drove
the Wildlife Loop in on and off rain, hoping to connect with park bison herd.
We found them amid a jam between the Prairie Trail and the road to Wind Cave.
Large cairns mark the ends of the Cairn Trail.
At
first the group was small and there was room for all. But in the main herd the
cars got all packed together and scatted among the bison, including many
calves. 
Bison calf scratching on boulder.
The
bison aren’t afraid of cars and will come much too close. At one point I looked
in my rear view mirror and all I could see was hump. They also appeared to be
going after salt on the vehicles. One bison stood in the road licking the side
of another car caught in the traffic. 
Bison licking salt from a vehicle on the Wildlife Loop Road.
With
the rain continuing, and the need for keeping the windows up (like that will
keep us safe!), we tried our best with pictures. 
Bison herd alongside the Wildlife Loop Road.
Later,
as we drove past the side road to Mt. Coolidge the rain turned to steady snow.
We crawled down the hill, and pulled into Legion Lake for an early dinner. Two
bedraggled backpackers were there looking for an open room. We squeezed in a
short walk on the Mickelson Trail later that evening.
The start of the Custer Spur of the Mickelson Trail.
We
finished the hiking part of the trip the next day with the main event being Custer
Park’s Lovers Leap Trail. Persusing some maps, I had figured that the park’s
Galena Creek Horse Trail connected to the SW corner of the Lovers Leap loop.
Without any horse facilities on the far end of the trail I suspected it got
little use, and could be a fun out of the way trail hike. A volunteer at the Visitors
Center had hiked it, and confirmed that the trail was little used by horses and
was a lot of fun. 
Jean at Lovers Leap.
After
visiting Lovers Leap (separately to endure no jumping) we found the unmarked Galena
Trail where the Lovers Leap Trail reached the creek. The first section was a
smooth single track in a tight little canyon. There were lots of flowers and
lots of stream crossings. Unfortunately, Jean only had her hiking boats, and
the unbooting and rebooting for all the crossings was going to take too long. So,
we left the rest of the hike for our next trip. 
The view from Stockade Lake.
On
the return leg of Lovers Leap, we found the trail had been relocated to pass
above the seasonal housing complex and the Game Lodge developed area. The new single
track eliminated a pesky road walk alongside the road. 
Ridgetop hiking on Lovers Leap Trail
Our
fickle weather held a bit longer and we stopped to hike the Stockade Lake
Trail. This is a nice short trail with good views of the Black Elk Peak area. 
Hiking along Galena Creek.
Stockade
Lake Trail had also been relocated since our 2007 visit, and converted from a
loop to semi-loop which added about a quarter mile.
Bighorn Sheep in Custer State Park.
Another
batch of rain came afterward, but later in the evening we got out for our final
walk on the Mickelson Trail south to MP 43 which was dry, and back to the
Harbach Trailhead which was drizzly.
Bighorns at rest.
