This hike was part of our 2019 North Dakota trip designed to
support the new edition of my North Dakota hiking guidebook. Bower House, my new
publisher, had agreed to publish a new edition to allow us to include the new
section of the Maah Daah Hey (MDH) Trail south of the Theodore Roosevelt
National Park (TRNP) South Unit, and to provide more detail on some of the
other trails in the Maah Daah Hey system. Cottonwood and Bennett were two of
the trails we needed more information on. Jean and I had planned to hike them
during our last visit, but slumping caused by an extremely wet spring had
closed the trails during our visit. Since the hike details will appear in the
new book, this description will focus on the sights and experiences of our
scouting hike.
The Cottonwood and Bennett trails combine with a section of
the Maah Daah Hey Trail to form a 15 mile loop hike based out of the Little
Missouri National Grassland (LMNG) Bennett Campground. Only five miles off the
highway, the trailhead and campground are easy to reach. Many mountain bikers
going the length of the Maah Daah Hey use Bennett CG as a starting point since
bikes are not allowed in the designated wilderness in the north unit of TRNP,
and there is no established bypass route around the north unit. It is also the
closest trailhead to the famed China Wall, just north of the loop.
Jean had not been doing much mountain biking lately, and was
due for a rest break in our heavy hiking schedule, so this was a solo ride for
me. Knowing Jean would be waiting all day on her own in camp, I was a little
nervous about how long I would be away on the ride. This would be the first
bike trip of the visit and though the trail sections we had hiked so far were
dry, conditions along the MDH can change quickly. Even something minor like a
flat tire could delay me significantly.
View Back to the Trailhead at Bennett Camp
The ride didn’t start out very well. Jean was able to shoot
some pictures of me leaving the campground, but I hadn’t gone more than a tenth
of mile when I realized that I’d forgotten some gear. I guess I was lucky
enough to realize that early on, and quickly rode back to the car and packed it
up. Just beyond the crossing of the Bennett Creek the loop starts; I elected to
go left on the Cottonwood Trail and ride the loop clockwise.
Cottonwood Trail
Though it is only a 300 foot climb from Bennett Creek to the
top of the grasslands above it, the climb is steep with several switchbacks and
required a bit of bike pushing on my part. I had thought I’d done enough bike
riding at home before the trip to be in shape for the MDH, but my slow progress
on the climb caused me to worry that I might be late returning to the trailhead.
Luckily, once the trail reaches the first milepost at the
top of a small butte the riding is much easier. The trail designers and
builders in the LMNG (many thanks again Curt and Russ!) have a great eye for
the fine lines and scenery that mountain bikers crave, and the ability to build
trails to highlight these features. The next few miles of singletrack flow over
the high prairie with views of the badlands around Cottonwood Creek off in the
distance, and a few pronghorn were nearby to keep me company. In my concern about
getting back to the trailhead on time I probably rode this section to fast, the
scenery here demands a slower pace.
Cottonwood Trail
The trail next drops down to cross its namesake creek before
another swichbacked climb in its last mile. After seven miles the Cottonwood
Trail ends at a junction with the Maah Daah Hey. I turned north on the MDH to
ride a section Jean and I had first explored the 2001 backpacking trip where we
had completed the original MDH. Turning north the trail first sits on benches well
above Cottonwood Creek, then snuggles up close to it as the valley narrows.
These tight areas, especially those where side creeks enter, are especially
prone to the sudden erosion caused by heavy rains and sudden flooding. This is
after all, how the badlands form.
The next five miles along the MDH continued the great riding
of the Cottonwood. The trail was more level, generally smooth and well
maintained. With the creek nearby there was always good scenery and the trail
had the nice twisty flow that makes riding so much fun. At the junction with
the Bennett Trail, I had the option of continuing north to the China Wall, one
of the MDH’s signature features. But not wanting to leave Jean alone in camp
longer than necessary, I turned off onto the Bennett Trail for the last three
miles back to camp.
The Maah Daah Hey Trail Above Cottonwood Creek
Bennett was also a well marked and well maintained trail. I
got briefly off course where the trail passed just above the bank of Bennett
Creek, but quickly regained the singletrack. There was one small sinkhole on
the trail that was flagged for biker safety. Too soon I was back at the close
of the loop. I rode the short spur that enters the campground directly while
bypassing the trailhead then rode the road back to the car while Jean took some
pictures. She’d had quiet time reading and communing with the small group of
cattle that were only other occupants of the site. Once again, I had seen no
one else on the trail.
Riding back into Bennett Camp
For a Better Trail Map go to MDHTA.com
