The Barkley Challenge Loop (BCL) is a 20+ mile trip on trails around
the boundary of Tennessee’s Frozen Head State Park. Frozen Head is home to
renown Barkley Marathons and its spawn, the
Barkley Fall Classic (BFC). Both the Barkley and the BFC are popular
races, an entry into either race is very difficult to obtain. The BCL offers
runners visiting Frozen Head an opportunity to test themselves over a small
portion of some of the most famous trail running courses in the country no
matter when they are in the park and without having to wrangle a coveted race
entry. The challenge is to complete the
entire course and test yourself vs. the fastest known time (FKT) (currently
held by Barkley Marathon Finisher John Kelly in an astounding time of 3:24).
The Barkley Challenge Loop (BCL) was adopted by “Frozen” Ed Furtaw as
his project. Ed was the first finisher of any version of the legendary Barkley
Marathons, is the author of the definitive book about the race. He remains the
most knowledgeable student of Barkley Race lore. Ed maintains the finishers
list, finishing times and uses the runners GPS files to determine that they
have run the specified course correctly. Ed had been planning a trip back east for
the fall, and arranged to visit Frozen Head (FHSP) to try and set his age group
FKT for 70+.
The loop is essentially the outer boundary of the main FHSP trail
system; consisting of the North Boundary Trail, some jeep roads and the Chimney
Tops Trail. I’d volunteered to help/pace Ed on his trip, he’s an old friend and
recently we’d had little time to talk.
.
Ed was staying with the Karl and Cathy Henn (Cofounders of the Barkley)
on his visit and on the prior day had toured Brushy Mountain Prison, which was now
open as a tourist attraction. Ed had mentioned their association with the
Barkley and that apparently was the ticket to the insider’s version of the
tour. They were guided by a former prison guard who allowed them access to
several areas outside the regular route. Then the group met for dinner and I
joined them along with Barkley Icon Leonard Martin and his girlfriend Debbie. Mike
Dobies, a multiple time Barkley fun run finisher, would join us for the run,
but couldn’t make the dinner. Conversely, Leonard was working the next day and
wouldn’t be able to join us for the trip.
Prerun Dinner with Leonard, Debbie, Ed, Cathy, Karl and Gail.
Ed, Mike, and I started the Challenge Loop at the Visitor Center parking
in FHSP a little after 8AM, after a round of pictures. We had perfect weather
for the trip, temperatures in the 30’s at the start, and maybe close to 60 at
midday, with 100% clear blue sky and no wind. Recent weather had been dry, so
the trails were in awesome shape. We started up the walking trail, and discovered
that Ed was looking to hike almost the entire loop. He predicted an 8-8.5 hour
finish based on two pieces of evidence; a training run he’d done that was about
half our effort in about 4 hours, and a calculation that he’d devised based on
distance and elevation. He figured that each 500 feet of elevation gain adds
the equivalent of about a mile of time. So, our expected 20 mile, 6000’ climb trip
would be equal to a 32 mile run. Ed’s also a heart rate fan, he calculated that his optimal heart rate would be 125 and
that he could move at 14 minute miles at 125. Basically, all that translated to
a roughly 8 hour trip. Ed’s a super analytical guy, and I was grateful for his
insights.
Ed and Mike at the Start.
Partway up Bird Mountain Trail we were moving well enough that I
removed my ear band and mid weight wicker. I still had liner gloves on and
would keep on a lightweight wicking shirt plus shorts for the entire run. Ed
kept to his hiking pace on the descent of Bird, I’ve now forgotten any split
times, except 3:30 at Bald Knob and 4:30 at the Garden Spot, but remember that
at the Garden Spot that I thought we were well behind schedule. All the creeks
were very low, we were able to step over Phillips, Rayder and all the other
creeks with no trouble.
Between the three of us we shared a number of Barkley stories along the
way. Because the Barkley Course changes somewhat nearly every year, there were
parts of the route that Ed or Mike had not been in in many years. Just watching
and listening to Ed move through so many of his favorite places was a treat. He
loves the park and the race so much that it is inspiring just to hike with him.
Near the Garden Spot, Mike stopped for a lunch break and asked Ed and I
to go ahead of him. I was wearing my black fanny pack, so I barely had enough
room for snacking on the way. Ed also ate some on the loop, but I think not as
much as I. I took a short break myself, then Mike and I walked to the start of
the cutoff to Coffin Springs and then I ran a bit to catch up to Ed right
before the junction with the main jeep road.
Ed and I lingered on the fire tower as the views were excellent.
Heading down the tower we passed Mike again who told us go without him to the
end. I stopped at Tub Springs to fill up my water bottles while again Ed went
ahead. I ran and caught Ed again before the Spicewood Trail junction, the last
real running I’d do for the loop. Almost every
feature along the trail brought back some memory from years of racing and
training.
Selfie with Ed at the Frozen Head Tower
View from the Lookout Tower
Even the Chimney Tops Trail went quickly and smoothly. We soon saw our
only hiker of the day. Neither Ed nor I seemed to tire much, though 20 miles on old
knees is bound to rile up a bit of soreness. We still moved well over the final
short climb and down the gentle switchbacks of Chimney Tops Trail. Close to the
end of the loop Ed pulled away and finished ten seconds ahead of me, almost
perfectly in his predicted time window. He was successful in capturing, and
still owns, the FKT for the Challenge Loop in his age group. Way to go Ed! Mike
strolled on in about a half hour later, and we managed to share a few more stories.
