Saturday, January 3, 2004

Dupont Forest Mountain Biking, 1-3, 2004

Sometimes with guidebook writing you get lucky with your timing. For both my Black Hills and North Dakota Badlands guidebooks I was able to write the first book about an area that had just seen a major expansion of its trail system. Consequently, both those books have sold well. My backroads bicycling guide came out in 2003, at the opposite end of a similar cycle. The book was released just before Knoxville, Chattanooga, and other areas began to build extensive trail networks for mountain biking. I was able to cover places like Tsali, Ocoee, and Bent Creek which already had great mountain biking, but I missed out on describing a number of new, exciting places to ride. One of the places I most wish I’d been able to cover is DuPont Forest, south of Asheville, NC. Now a NC State Forest, DuPont has a large trail system and is one of the best places for riding in the region.

It took a long and complicated effort to protect the area and open it to the public. During the 1950s the DuPont Corporation began buying land in the Little River watershed. The company purchased approximately 10,000 acres of to control the supply of clean water for their manufacturing process. The company opened a silicon chip manufacturing plant in 1955. Later on, the plant manufactured x-ray film.

DuPont State Forest was created in 1997 when the DuPont Corporation sold 7,640 acres of property to the state of North Carolina through funding provided by the Natural Heritage Trust Fund. The public purchase of the property was facilitated by the Conservation Fund, a national non-profit organization. Approximately 2,600 acres of the property was registered with North Carolina Natural Heritage Program as having special ecological significance, limiting land-use for the protection of those ecological communities. The 2,700 acres directly adjacent to the DuPont Corporation production facility was sold to Sterling Diagnostic Imaging in 1996. In March 2000, the Natural Heritage Trust Fund financed the purchase of an additional 526 acres. In October 2000, an additional 2,200 acres along the Little River corridor including Triple, High and Bridal Veil Falls was acquired by the state from a developer through the process of eminent domain, utilizing funds from the state’s Clean Water Management Trust Fund. The forest was first staffed in 2002. Two small tracts were added to the forest in 2006, and a key section along Conservation Road was acquired in 2008.

In 2011 DuPont State Forest was designated as a State Recreational Forest. The forest covers approximately 12,400 acres, has more than 40 miles of multiuse roads, nearly 60 miles of multiuse trails that are shared by a variety of user groups, and now receives more than a million visitors a year.

I probably first heard of DuPont through my friend Steven who was living in Asheville, and had helped me substantially on my bike guide. My manuscript was barely at the publisher when the word of tens of miles of mixed single and two track trails among huge waterfalls began to spread. We got our first information from the MTB WNC web site and were able to pick up a 2001 NC Division of Forestry Trail Map. The earliest of these rides occurred before the advent of digital photography, so I have only a few poor quality slide scans. I was using GPS by the start of my DuPont Riding, but was not yet in the habit of saving individual trip maps. In addition, some of the trail names and numbers have changed from that era.

For our first ride Steven and I parked at the Hooker Falls TH and rode a clockwise loop out to Wintergreen and Grassy Branch falls and then made a side trip to the south to see Lake Julia and Bridal Veil Falls. Back then Hooker Falls had just a small gravel lot and a port-a-potty. We took short trips at the start to the 5’ drop at Hooker, which seemed impressive to us then, and then onto the Moore Cemetery. Next we rode Holly north to the Lake Imaging TH, which was set up for horse trailers. We then took Jim  Branch, which has since been relocated to a gentler grade.

We then rode Buck out to Thomas Cemetery, which had about a dozen old graves. A few more twists and turns brought us to the bike parking area from which we walked to Wintergreen Falls. At the falls we met a group from the Greenville Hiking Club. This was early in the discovery of DuPont Forest so, otherwise we saw only a few other hikers and riders. But here we were only six miles in, and we’d already seen two waterfalls and a pair of cemeteries, ideal habitat for habitual Smokies hikers.

Just past the falls we got on Grassy Creek. Steven took a showy wipe out fording the creek on a section that has since been relocated. We next took Joanna toward Grassy Creek Falls. This involved a short section of Buck Road, which was apparently the popular horse trail. Grassy Creek was another falls we could only approach on foot. This was a long sloping falls running 30-40’ downhill.

Here we began our side trip by turning south on Buck to its junction with Conservation Road by the covered bridge. There was some private land here still owned by Agfa, the film company that last produced here up until around 2002. We headed toward Bridal Veil Falls, and a viewing area at the junction with Corn Shoals. This was the largest of the falls so far, and we could see a huge flow of water over the nose of what appeared to be one of the granite domes that are common along the escarpment. We talked with a ranger who gave us some tips for viewing Triple Falls.

Our next visit was to Lake Julia. This area had been slated for development, and there was a large conference center alongside the road. From the lake we climbed to the end of the airstrip that had once served the film plant. Looking off the end of the runway toward the plant was a scene that would fit in a James Bond thriller. 

Steven on the airstrip.

From the airstrip we headed back toward Hooker Falls. The route got a little complicated, but we made it to the picnic shelter and the stairs that led to the base of the falls. We’d obviously left the best for last as High Falls literally dwarfed the other falls we’d seen previously. But even better was Triple Falls. These weren’t the waterfalls  I was used to seeing in the Cumberlands; small creeks falling over the lip of thin sandstone layers. These were big, important streams with places to go and things to do. Their water raced recklessly along, leaping over the edge to crash to the pools below. Both big falls were easily accessible by foot from the trailhead and seemed to have most of the park visitors.

High Fallls.

There were rangers stationed at the falls and we managed to get copies of the updated trail map. High Falls and Triple Falls are premier destinations. Even on the Blue Ridge Escarpment, where falling water is common, these two fall stand out. But even without them we’d seen four falls, two cemeteries, a covered bridge, and the air strip vista, all while riding a mix of 18 miles of well-kept trail and two track roads. 

Triple Falls.

Through the late 2000’s Dupont became one of our favorite riding areas. On the next trip that July Jean found the riding a good fit for her while we explored similar sites. We extended the northern part of our loop out to Flatwoods while still racking up 18 miles.

We would end up making seven trips to DuPont, mostly staying the weekend with Steven for two days of riding or hiking. Steven would eventually move back to Knoxville, making the logistics for visiting DuPont more complicated. But by then the trail systems in Chattanooga were growing, and we switched our biking trip focus to that area (Raccoon Mtn. MB). 

2004 DuPont Route maps. 1-3-04 in green and 7-24-04 in orange.