Friday, July 16, 1999

Wild Cave Tour, Mammoth Cave National Park, 7-16-99

This tour was the start of a three week vacation that I took after quitting my job at the ASARCO Coy Mine to join the full time MBA program at the University of Tennessee. A visit to Pikes Peak and some backpacking/peak bagging in Rocky Mountain National Park was the first portion of the trip, but I stopped at Mammoth Cave on the trip out to break up the drive. I spent the middle section of the trip mountain biking in the Black Hills, then Jean joined me for some hiking. For the final section, we headed to Wyoming’s Bighorn Mountains (Link) for a five day backpacking trip, before driving home via the Iowa Highpoint, and making a stop in Ames to visit family. 

7-16-99, Wild Cave Tour, Mammoth Cave National Park, 5.5 miles

The drive to Colorado would be a long solo trip, so I needed to break things up a bit. On the first day I went west to Nashville, and stayed with Buddy and Ellen Koonce. That left a short drive to Mammoth Cave.

Jean and I had made our first trip to Mammoth Cave the previous year for backpacking and the easy cave tours. While Jean isn’t interested in caves (they remind her too much of her dark childhood bedroom) I am very interested. There’s a lot of similarity between big caves and the host rocks at the Mississippi Valley-type zinc mines where I’d been working over the last six years. I’d signed up for the park’s Wild Cave Tour, hoping for a taste of what exploring a cave would be all about.

Wild Cave is a long tour advertised as 6 hours and 5.5 miles. We started at the Carmichael Entrance. First they gave us all helmets and a bit of training. The start of the tour was two test loops; the first was a squat and knee crawl, the second was a long tough belly crawl. One person dropped out even before the first crawl. After the entrance we caved two short, developed areas, and then arrived at the Snowball Room, where we could buy lunch in the underground cafeteria. After visiting Wind and Jewel caves in the Black Hills I was surprised that the Park Service would allow so much development at Mammoth, but Mammoth had been a tourist destination long before it was acquired by the NPS. The Snowball Room had concretions of gypsum on the roof, and I imagined most of the best specimens were long gone.

After lunch we had a lot of long walks through the underground equivalent of narrow slot canyons, barely wide enough for my hips, and typically 6-8’ high. Often the passages were much lower, requiring a crab walk or knee crawl. Some channels were very linear, while others meandered like streams. I couldn’t figure out why the difference.

Neither of our guides had any particular insight into the geology of the cave. The tour route was impacted, some obvious holds were worn so smooth that they were tough to use. The guides had some leeway in selecting their routes, probably a necessity when it would be tough to judge the ability of the group. We saw more cave features toward the end, and even used some of the Introduction to Caving Tour route. The guides said that Wild Cave had more caving, so the Introduction to Caving Tour might be easier overall.

I took some notes on the route on a park brochure, the transcription is below. I don’t have a detailed map of the cave, so some of the feature names are unconfirmed. It was tough enough to take notes on the route, but I wish I’d been better able to describe the formations. 



We used the Carmichael Entrance (a manmade entrance) and took the elevator to Cleveland Avenue. We went through the Barehole (the tightest squeeze) then a rinky dink back to Cleveland Ave. From my reading later I learned that a rinky dink is a long convoluted route designed to confuse new cavers. Next, Clark’s Crawl (knees and stoop) to Kathleen’s Crawl, long and tiring belly crawl, led to the Snowball Room and lunch.

After lunch was Peanut Butter Alley, named for its sticky floor, past Thorpe’s Pit (the last feature shown on the park cave map). Thorpe’s led below the discovery level, and we descended to Lower Boone Avenue. We then did a loop through some low areas, and took the canyon crawl to the Old Lantern Room. The next few features were Nelson Pit, Edna’s Dome, and Hanson Pass. I later tried to find information online about the features I’d noted, but cavers hold their information closely, and I found little information beyond a few images.

Next we went to Cathedral Domes, where water was leaking through cracks in the sandstone cap above. The water must have formed a small lake as I noted crayfish and camelback crickets. The domes were vertical, very high, and roughly cylindrical with small flutes on their inside. They were not unlike some of the high narrow domes in the zinc mines that contained high grade ore. Next came Becky’s Alley and Greta Grotto with more flowstone, and good hand holds. Then Lion’s Jaw and Butt Slide. Next was a newer route, Dave’s Lost Sea. This was the first difficult going we’d encountered since lunch. It was a long knee and hands passage with some squatting to reach the large Robertson Avenue leading to Fox Avenue and Big Gypsum Avenue. Our guide then took us off route to the Spiral Staircase. We climbed a long stretch of breakthrough called the Compass Needle to reach the paved tour route at Frozen Niagara.

Though I was used to being underground and climbing through rough terrain, the trip wore me out. And, I still had to drive another five hours, with a dinner stop, to spend the night at Mt Vernon, Ill. In another two days I’d get to Colorado Springs to start the Colorado hiking portion of the trip.