Saturday, October 5, 1991

Custer State Park, Bear Gulch-Grace Coolidge MB ride, 10-5-91

This is another ride I got from my trusty copy of the Horning and Marriott’s “Mountain Bikers Guide to the Black Hills.” I headed down to Custer Park for a short ride, hoping to have enough time to add a quick trip to the nearby 7,000’ peak I had recently discovered. (Sylvan Peak Link)

I started the ride about 10AM at its alternate trailhead at the Black Hills Playhouse Road (BHNF 753), in the northern part of Custer Park. I rode the loop counterclockwise, so the first couple miles were on the gravel Playhouse Road, and then the paved road through the Center Lake Campground Area. Then I rode down the old two track road that is the Grace Coolidge Walk-in fishing area trail. This area is now a hiking trail, but was open to mountain bikes in 1991. The Grace Coolidge Trail has 14 shallow unbridged creek crossings, none of which were a problem in the dry September weather. Tracks here included both bikes and elk.

Grace Coolidge Creek in 2023.

By 11 AM I was at the picnic area on US 16A at the south end of the Grace Coolidge Trail, ready to begin the challenging east half of the loop. While the first half of the ride had been on roads and easy two track, the east half of the loop would go through little used backcountry in Custer Park. This was also just three years after the Galena Fire which had burned through much of the park, incinerating or killing huge swaths of the Custer forests.

USGS Galena Fire Map.

The route started up an old jeep road, and was immediately in the Galena Burn. About a half mile in there is an old substation at a powerline crossing. The route description mentioned fences beyond this point, but I did not see them. Potentially these were burned in the fire. Beyond a small saddle with a cement foundation, the route was clogged with downed trees from the fire.

Approaching Bear Gulch, the guidebook route veers out of the small draw to go north over saddle 4,443’. But despite a warning in the guidebook, I missed this turn, pushing my mileage total for the day to 12.6. I stayed along the floor of the gulch until the intersection with Bear Gulch, then turned north upstream to return to the guidebook route near the junctions of the north and south forks. I was then able to follow the jeep trail all the way back to my truck parked on the Playhouse Road. The 6.8 miles of the east half of the ride took about 3 hours. Not bad, for hiking pace. I saw one bison along the way. I really liked the ride, but made a note to stay out of the burn on future rides. The complete area was mapped as 100% timber kill by the USGS.

The jeep trails were washed out in the upper part of Bear Gulch, presumably one of the aftereffects of the Galena Fire. But this area was really pretty, with lots of granite pinnacles, and the leaves just starting to change color. This is one of those rides where I wish I’d kept more detailed notes, rather than just riding the loop.

 Much of the park has healed in the 30 years since the fire, and the forest should once again be ready to explore. The east half of the loop would certainly warrant a visit on foot, and there seems great potential for off-trail hiking loops, including going from Center Lake east across the South Fork of Bear Gulch. 

1991Ride Map.