I’m not sure how this trip got organized, but Buddy and I had done a weeklong trip in the Wind Rivers the summer before, and he had invited me to join him and some other friends for a winter trip in the Smokies. I prepared for winter conditions with plenty of skiing in the Black Hills, but remember being a bit vexed in trying to predict the conditions we’d face in the Smokies. I now understand that some winters the Smokies are almost snow free, while others can have deep snowpack, and that conditions can change rapidly with a single storm. Our plan was to start at Newfound Gap, hike the Appalachian Trail south over the balds at Spence and Russell fields, and then finish off in Cades Cove. The rest of the group were Smokies veterans, and I left the trip logistics up to them.
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I left Lead at 2PM and flew from Rapid City to Nashville via Chicago on United arriving about 10:15PM, which was an hour late. Buddy picked me up at the airport and drove us four hours to Tim Line’s place in Wears Valley, picking up James Wedekind in Knoxville on the way. This may have been my first time meeting James. We drank a bunch of beer and were exhausted when we went to bed around 3:30.
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Tim’s
son Nathan woke us up at 7:30. It took us all a while to get moving, with our
short sleep and mild hangovers. We ate breakfast in Pigeon Forge and then went
to the Sugarlands Visitor Center, where I got a trail map and a copy of the
Sierra Club’s “blue book” trail guide. Then we went up to Newfound Gap to start
the hike on the road to Clingmans Dome (now Kuwohi).
It
took three hours walking the road to reach Clingmans Dome. We met a northbound
AT through hiker a short ways in who had been averaging 10-12 miles a day. We
walked the road because it was closed to vehicles and offered better views than
the AT, but also, I’m sure, because it was easier. Janes and I enjoyed the
roadcuts into the Thunderhead Sandstone. Despite clouds and fog on the drive
in, our weather was clear.
The
day was warm enough to walk in my light wool pants and polypro wicker, a
definite change from my last Smokies trip (which was a cold snowy journey on
the north end of the AT in 1987). I wore a new pair of boots on only their
second trip. We all got blisters from the road walk, but my heel blisters were exacerbated
by the new boots. I changed into sneakers for the last half of the road walk.
We
reached the tower by lunch, huddling below the walkway to get out of the wind.
I realized there would be no views without the tower, ironic for a major peak.
The rest of the walk was mostly downhill to Silers Bald. This was classic
Smokies AT hiking, walking right along the ridge crest. We had the shelter to
ourselves, a good thing as we arrived late and were pretty disorganized. The
shelter was cold but bearable with my gear. My new candle lantern was bright
enough for writing.
Buddy, James, and Tim at the tower on Clingmans Dome.
12.0 miles, Newfound Gap to Silers Bald Shelter via Clingmans Dome Road and AT
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No
trouble sleeping last night. Morning came early and I didn’t wake up until Tim
turned his stove on. It was a warm, so we ate a quick breakfast and hit the
trail. Easy hiking to Derrick Knob Shelter where we had lunch.
Double Springs Shelter.
About
halfway through I loaned Buddy my shorts. He brought only heavy wool pants, and
was suffering in the heat. I stripped down to my T shirt and was fine. We sat
in the sun at Derrick Knob just enjoying the warmth. I popped my heal blisters,
but my feet were not bothering me much.
The
walk to Thunderhead was a little more rigorous. My heels hurt on the uphills,
but the climbs were not very long. I was excited to visit Thunderhead again,
but also remembered that the best views are nearby at Rocky Top. We stopped at
Rocky Top, and met some other hikers that included one of James’ cousins, a guy
James didn’t even know hiked. 
Tim hiking near Derrick Knob.
There
were nine of us in the shelter at Spence Field, not a bad crowd for a Saturday
night. Temp was reported at 45F. We saw one deer and heard two others browsing.
The Smokies aren’t a great wildlife park, and I was surprised to see a deer at
this elevation. I was tired, but with the weather this good it was just great
to be outside. Buddy, Tim, and James had hiked enough together to make a good
group. Each of us carried and cooked dinner for one night of the trip. I have
no record of what I cooked, or which night was mine.
The
balds along the AT were all smaller than I remembered, I wasn’t sure if they’d
grown over (they had) or if my memory was wrong. None of us had been on this
part of the AT for about 10 years. 
Approaching Rocky Top.
Spence
Field had a resident skunk in those days. Another group had seen it outside the
shelter and as soon as we went to bed it came in (no fence in those days). The
main target was Buddy’s food bag, but the skunk rummaged through everything
long enough to keep us awake. It left no damage and was unable to chew through
the mesh bag where Buddy stored his food.
11.8 miles, Siler Bald to Spence Field Shelter via the AT
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This
day’s walk was easier with some breaks every 2.5 miles or so. After a few years
living out west I was unused to the lush Appalachian forest. The Smokies in
January reminded of North Georgia at my start of the AT in mid-March. Lots of
downed trees, no greenery, and no snow, but plenty of short climbs. I noticed
that the north sides of the balds were covered in rhododendron, a good way to
judge the top of a climb approached. Russell Field had no views of its own, but
we could see through the trees where the trail followed the crest. The trails
were in great shape, easy to follow with a nice smooth tread. Except at Spence
Field and Rocky Top, we’d seen only one other person. 
Tim, Buddy, & James at the AT junction.
A
Doe Knob we turned off the AT onto the Gregory Ridge Trail. Like the AT (which it
once was) Gregory Ridge followed the crest closely. We debated camping at Moore
Spring, an abandoned shelter site, But instead we continued on down to CS #12
(Forge Creek) to get a head start on the last day’s hike. The real world was
intruding again. My flight connections were tight, and I would need to be at
work the following day. Still, it is a miracle that I could wake up in Cades
Cove and be back in the Black Hills before midnight.
Gregory
Bald was another great trail. It followed the ridge closely, then switch backed
down. Forge Creek Campsite 12 was located right at the creek junction; a
beautiful spot tucked into the rhododendron. Maybe we should have skipped the
shelters for more of the campsites. It was even warm enough to wash in the
creek. My legs needed the cleaning, and my feet were in heaven for those few
moments before they went numb.
Part
of my shock at the lushness of the Smokies came from my years in the arid west,
but the Smokies looked like jungle to me. On a potty break, it was tough just
to fight your way off trail between the thick underbrush and the steep slopes.
Away
from the heavily used shelters we could have a fire and sat around to finish
our whiskey. We planned some further backpack trips, hoping that Tim, who was
still managing LeConte Lodge, could join us that spring for a hike in Escalante
Canyon in Utah’s Glen Canyon Recreation Area (he would not).
For
the last day and a half, the sky had grown progressively hazier. After three
days with no rain we should have known better, but we decided to camp out under
the stars. Sure enough, soon after bed, we felt the pitter patter of rain on
our sleeping bags and scurried back into the tents.
12.3 miles, Spence Field to Forge Creek Campsite 12 via AT, Gregory Bald, and Gregory Ridge trails
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It
was still raining when Tim woke us up a little before sunrise. I’d slept as if
dead each night of the trip, and probably would have stayed in the bag until
noon if left to my own devices. We scrambled to hit the trail assuming the
typical Smokies hiker outfits; raincoats, rain pants, and pack covers. The last
two miles of Gregory Ridge would have been a tough climb, but it was all
downhill for us. We added 2.3 miles on the Forge Creek Road to reach the truck
at the Cades Cove Loop Road.
Driving
through Cades Cove we saw 20+ deer, including two 4-point bucks. After that it
was back to modern transportation. My notes end with the observation that even
with a flight delay in Chicago, I made it back to Lead before midnight.
4.3 miles, CS 12 to Cades Cove Loop Road via Gregory Ridge Trail and Forge Creek Road
Gear
List:
This
is one of the few trips of this era where I still have my gear list. It is
quite a contrast to what I could/would carry these days. But this also reflects
my uncertainty about what to expect in the Smokies backcountry during winter.
Bandana & tissues
Sorrel boots (not used, walked in boots and sneakers)
2 pairs of wool socks, 3 pair liner socks
Extra underwear, shorts
Light wool pants, long underwear
Fishnet shirt, T shirt Polypro shirt, sweater, wool coat
Raincoat, rain pants
Vest, face mask
Army gloves, sunglasses
Warm hat, baseball cap
Notebook, pen, map pocket, topo map, novel
Flashlight, lantern, matches, compass, watch, jackknife
Sleeping bag and straps, foam pad and straps
First aid kit, lip balm, toothbrush and toothpaste
Bowl, cup, spoon, food bag, jackknife
Canteen, day pack, toilet paper
Backpack (my old Kelty external frame) and cover
Stove (probably my original MSR Whisperlite) and accessories
Camera and extra film
6 Bfast bars
3 tea
1 jerky
6 bagels
2 bags dried fruit
3 apples
3 hot chocolate
Garbage bag
Take separately
Boots and gaiters
Tent (Clip Flashlight) Not sure if I carried the tent
AT guide and park map
Extra clothes (unspecified, but probably for travel)
Cash and plane tickets
