The hiking and mountain biking that Jean and I did on this trip was in support of a planned third edition of my Black Hills hiking guide. But, because of financial troubles at my publisher, Big Earth, the third edition never went to press. Most of my notes, mapping, and pictures from this trip, and a similar one in 2007 are better suited to guidebook format, rather than to trip reports in a blog format. But both trips have some pictures that were fun to review, and brought back great memories of exploring in the hills.
I converted my notes
into a blog in 2022, adding draft descriptions of two trails in the Bear Butte
area, one in the Bearlodge, and two new draft chapters for a mountain bike trip
on the Sundance Trails in Wyoming’s Bearlodge Mountains, and a mountain bike
loop in SD’s Custer State Park That I had written for the third edition.
To
start the trip, Jean drove solo out to Ames. I flew into Des Moines Friday the
30th, and we spent the first in Ames. The next day we drove out to
the Black Hills, and stayed with the Harts in Boulder Canyon.
7-2-06,
Alkali Creek Nature Trails and Bear Butte Lake Trail Hikes, 3.0 miles
Bear Butte Lake.
After
a full day drive from Ames, we got to the Black Hills late in the afternoon. We
needed to stretch our legs and decided to tackle two short trails that would be
new to us: the Alkali Creek Nature Trail in the BLM Fort Meade Recreation Area
and the Bear Butte Lake Trail in Bear Butte State Park. Both trails were short
and scenic, and we finished just ahead of an impending rainstorm. 
Sunset at Bear Butte Lake.
Here
are the draft guidebook descriptions for these two trails:
The
Alkali Creek Trailhead contains a six unit fee campground with water, shaded
picnic areas, and toilets open from May 15 to September 30, except during the Sturgis
motorcycle rally. No drinking water is
found along the trail. Alkali Creek also serves as the trailhead for the
0.7-mile Alkali Creek Nature Trail, which is for
foot travel only. There is an interpretive brochure for the trail which is
keyed to ten numbered posts along the way. The trail begins in the picnic area
and traverses a meadow and ponderosa pine grove, before returning to the
parking area. There are good views west toward the main Black Hills. In spring
or summer, the wildflowers include bee balm.
The Bear Butte Lake Trailhead also
serves as the south end of the Bear Butte Lake Trail. To circle the lake
counterclockwise, begin by following the Centennial Trail for one mile to the
south. At 1.2 miles reach a small picnic area, and the trail follows a mowed
path. Reach the west end of the campground at 1.7 miles. The trail meanders
through the campground and ends at the access road at 2.3 miles, just after
crossing the access to the tent camping area. When hiked in 2006, the trail did
not make a complete loop, requiring either a return along the campground road
and SD 79, or a rather unpleasant cross-country shortcut around the upper end
of the lake.
7-3-06,
Mickelson Trail Mountain Bike Ride, Dumont to Tunnel D, and Swede Gulch, 23.1
miles
Jean
and I were mountain bike riding a lot in this era, and one of our favorite
rides was the 120-mile Mickelson Trail across the Black Hills. We liked the
gentle grades, smooth crushed gravel surface, and scenic views of this
converted rail trail. Our plan was to ride from the Dumont Trailhead south to
Tunnel D, and then take a look at my guidebook route at Swede Gulch on the ride
back. 
Rapid Creek.
This
section of the Mickelson passes the well-known building covered in the lids of
cans of cyanide used in recovering gold from the nearby mines. Try to imagine
what it would be like to try and get a permit for that type of construction
these days! 
"Cyanide City"
We
rode over seven miles through pretty canyon, wildflower filled meadows, and
past old mining ruins. Tunnel D is a short wood framed tunnel, by a scenic spot
to stop and eat a snack as its resident chipmunks attested.
Mickelson Trail Tunnel D.
On
the return ride we turned west on the gravel Nahant Road to explore Swede
Gulch. At a cattle guard we met some of the local cows, passing a corral. Then
we reached the end of the road at a gate across Swede Gulch and a sign
indicating the limit of motorized travel.
Cows near Swede Gulch.
Beyond
the gate was a dense meadow. We went about a mile before things got too grown
up for Jean to enjoy. I went a bit further and managed to get to the confluence
of Tillson Creek and Swede Gulch. When I lived in the Black Hills the loop
around these two forks was one of my favorite “off-trail” ski routes and a good
summer bike ride. But back then the area was open to grazing and without the
grazing pressure and associated vehicle traffic this was no longer a viable
route on a bike. One small loss for bikers, but a big gain for the overall health
of the Black Hills. 
Overgrowth in Swede Gulch.
7-4-06,
Centennial Trail, Pilot Knob to BHNF Road 740 Hike, 7.4 miles
Kathy
and Leroy would join us for this out and back hike on Centennial Trail. This is
one of the few sections of the CT that was open to motorized use. ATV’s had
severely damaged the original trail, and a reroute had been put in place in
1996. I had yet to hike this reroute, and was disappointed to see that the new
section had been damaged by ATV overuse, just like its predecessor. 
Centennial Trail north of Pilot Knob.
We hiked 3.7 miles from Pilot Knob north to the end of the relocation at BHNF Road 740. We found the trail loose, rocky, and eroded, and apparently not scenic enough for more than a single picture. Though we were hiking we couldn’t imagine the trail being enjoyable on a mountain bike, though it was popular with the ATVs and dirt bikes. At least some of this trail had once been part of the old Boy Scout Silver Arrow Trail. We had found one old metal silver arrow marker on a tree near Boddleman Spring.
7-5-06,
BHNF Ward Draw Mountain Bike 15.1 miles, and Cook Lake Hike, 2.0 miles
Ward
Draw is located south of Cheyenne Crossing and the Hanna Campground in the
Northern Hills. It is another place I discovered while looking for cross-country
ski routes that also turned out to be a fun “off-trail” mountain bike route.
Like Swede Gulch, and some other of these unmaintained routes, the decade I’d
been away had transformed some of these routes to rugged bushwhacks, at least
for bikers. 
Overgrowth in Ward Draw.
We
rode the semi-loop clockwise, working up Ward Draw on old two track roads past
an old City of Lead water supply building. Further up the draw we did a lot of
pushing the bikes through the overgrowth on a rough cow path. We found the
section up to Harvey Spring too rough to ride, and explored about a bit to find
a slightly better route up the right fork of the draw. Next we turned up
through Well Park to the highpoint of the route at Point 6547’. Much of the
upper section of Ward Draw was being reclaimed from vehicles with roads
unsigned and some blocked of by large boulders. 
Smoother riding!
Once
back to the main two track roads we had a pretty and smooth downhill ride back
to the cars. 
Ward Draw flowers.
With
further changes in BHNF management, this area may also prove too rough for
mountain biking, but its potential for cross country skiing may still remain.
Given the overgrowth in the main part of Ward Draw I modified the book route to
become a 6.5 mile out and back trip up the west side with a turnaround at SMB
#2.
Next,
we planned a short visit to the Bearlodge Mountains on Wyoming side of the
Hills. We drove to the Cook Lake Recreation Area, where we would spend the
night, and decided to walk the short trail around Cook Lake. Cook Lake was the
site of a rare Black Hills landslide in 1997. I’d only hiked the loop once
before in 1990, this would be our first visit since the landslide.
Here’s
the new write up I drafted for the Cook Lake Trail. 
Evening at Cook Lake.
The
Cook Lake Campground is one of the finest in the National Forest System. The
area's isolation, and presence of a campground host, ensure serene, quiet
camping. Fishing, lake views, non-motorized boating plus biking and hiking
trails provide plenty of entertainment.
On July 17, 1997, fisherman working
the west side of Cook Lake got the surprise of their lives. Instead of finding
action out on the water, it was the earth under their feet that began to move.
The tree-covered hillside above them began to slide slowly downhill, snapping
trees and opening fractures in the earth.
The slide continued to move slowly over two months. The force of the
slide pushed up the lake bottom onto the opposite shore and left a 10' by 12'
dike halfway around the lake that eventually helped to prevent further slip.
The main scarp left by the slide was 40 feet deep and nearly one-quarter mile
long, but because of the slow rate of movement, no one was injured.
The Cook Lake slide wasn't the
product of a single event such as an earthquake or sudden heavy rainfall.
Research into the soils around the lake had already identified the slope as an
area with a "moderate potential for massive land failure". Several
consecutive wet summers saturated the soil profile to a point where the slide
began. The Black Hills National Forest has rebuilt the west side of the Cook
Lake Trail as accessible.
The Cook Lake Trail begins at a
trailhead at the lower end of the Campground Road. Though the trail is narrow
and twisty it is suitable for mountain bikes. The trail begins by crossing
Beaver Creek on large stones near the inlet to Cook Lake. Cross through a gate then descend some stairs
before reaching the area disturbed by the 1997 landslide. Scars from the slide,
and the toe of the slide in Cook Lake, were still clearly visible in 2006. Pass
two benches, then reach the first of two side trails leading left to the upper
campground at 0.7 mile. At 0.9 mile pass the lake outlet. The east side of the
trail has concrete paths, and fishing access. Reach the lower campground at 1.3
miles, and continue to follow the lakeshore to return to the trailhead at 1.5
miles.
7-6-06,
BHNF Mountain Biking, Cliff Swallow and Reuter-Carson and Devils Tower Red Beds
Trail Hike, 17.8 miles
This
was a busy day with trips in Wyoming’s Bearlodge Mountains to the Cook Lake,
Sundance Trails, and Devils Tower areas. 
Warren Peak Lookout Tower.
A)
Cliff Swallow is the longer trail at Cook Lake. It is little used, maybe just a
bit too far for a family group, but long enough to be its own destination. It
is a 3.5 mile loop for hikers and bikers with good views of the lake and plenty
of solitude. We caught the early morning light. 
Cook Lake.
B)
Our main objective of the day was for me to ride some of the Sundance Trails in
the southern part of the Bearlodge. This system was put in place in the early
90’s, and I never got the chance to hike or bike all of it. These still remain
the only trails in the Black Hills region that I have not hiked. We rode west
from the Sundance CG and TH on the Sundance, then Sand Pit trails.
Jean's bike at trail sign.
The
Sundance Trail was too steep for biking, so I ended up writing the trip up as
an out and back ride from the west end on FS Road 838. We saw a USFS ranger out
fixing trail signs, and also enjoyed a nice overlook looking south near the
junction with the West Fork Quarry Trail. After the main ride we headed up FS
Road 838 so that I could map and measure the Reuter Springs-Carson Cut off
Trail. 
Sundance Overlook.
Here’s
my write up for the Sand Pit and Sundance Trails
Description:
An old roadway that serves as an ideal introduction to the Sundance Trail
System in the Bearlodge Mountains.
General
Location: Five miles north of Sundance,
Wyoming.
Highlights:
A relatively easy introduction to this beautiful and little used area.
Access:
From Interstate 90, take Exit 185 west of Sundance. Turn left onto U.S. 14 for
one mile before turning north onto BHNF Road 838 (Warren Peak Road). Drive past
Reuter Campground at 2.7 miles and park at the junction with BHNF Road 899 at
5.5 miles.
Distance:
The Sand Pit Trail is 4.8 miles one way. The entire Sundance-Carson Draw trail
system covers over 50 miles.
Maps: Black Hills National Forest Carson Draw and Sundance Trails, and page 158.
The
Sand Pit Trail is the backbone of the Sundance Trail system. Together with the
Sundance Trail, it provides the only easy means of traversing the area from
west to east. The trail follows BHNF Road 899 for 3.2 miles of easy two track
riding, then narrows for a final 1.6 mile of single track fun. Though most
riders use Sand Pit to access other trails in the system, the trail is a fun
ride that serves as a great introduction to the area. An overlook and open
ridgetop riding on the east end of the trail provide worthy payoffs. Just be
aware that this is a downhill ride, and if riding back up the trail you’ll face
a long steady climb.
You can park at the wide
intersection of BHNF roads 838 and 899. Though this is not an official trailhead,
three trails start here. To the north is Upper Ogden Trail, which starts on a
grassy old road. To the south is the Reuter Springs Trail which follows a
maintained dirt road. The Sand Pit Trail is the main trail heading east and
follows BHNF Road 899. At 0.4 mile reach an intersection on the left with the
Ogden Ridge Trail which begins by following two track BHNF Road 899-1A. At 1.6
miles reach the intersection on the left with BHNF Road 899-1B. Cross a cattle
guard and then reach the junction with the single track Tent Canyon Ridge Trail
on the left at 1.7 miles. Just a short way down Tent Canyon Ridge are
intersections with the South Fork Trail, and then a branch of Road 899-1B.
Continue your descent down the Sand
Pit Trail, taking care not to miss the obscure junction with the Edge Trail on
the right at 1.8 miles. On the latest (2006) BHNF trail map this junction
appears to be mis mapped as occurring to west of the BHNF Road 899-1B junction.
Perhaps because it is poorly signed, the Edge Trail is little used and is
becoming overgrown. Two very overgrown side roads from Sand Pit also could
provide access to Edge.
The easy riding on Sand Pit ends at
a gate at 3.2 miles. Here the east end of Edge Trail enters as an overgrown
single track on the right. The road beyond is not maintained and quickly
narrows to a rough two track and becomes significantly hillier. At 3.6 miles
reach a junction with the West Fork Quarry Trail on the right that follows a
grassy two track. Go left at a split and reach the top of a small overlook with
outstanding views of Sundance Mountain and Green Knob to the south. The trail
beyond follows an open grassy ridge to its end at a 4-way junction at 4.8
miles.
From the 4-way junction the Sundance
Trail continues east 1.9 miles down to the Sundance Trailhead and horse camp.
To the north is the Tent Canyon Trail, which leads 1.5 miles down to the South
Fork of Tent Canyon. Finally, to the south is the very faint East Fork Quarry
Trail. Unless you’ve shuttled vehicles or are planning a more ambitious loop,
it is time to turn around and climb back to the trailhead.
Devils Tower.
C)
The final trip of the day was to Devils Tower National Monument where we would
hike the Red Beds Trail around the tower. The Red Beds Trail takes a longer
loop around the tower than the paved path and allows for a quieter, more contemplative
hike. It also passes through the bright red rock of the Sundance Formation.
Devils Tower Red Beds Trail.
The
hike had all the earmarks of “the hike that should have been left until next
time.” First we passed a 6’ long rattlesnake, rare for the Black Hills. Then we
got pinned down by a furious lightning storm, with no shelter to be found.
Luckily by that time we were not too far from the park road and were able to
scramble back to the car like a pair of drowned rats. We ended up getting a
room at the Super 8 in Spearfish for the night.
Devils Tower.
7-7-06,
Mickelson Trail, Mystic to Tunnel D and to Deerfield Trail Daugherty TH, 28.3
miles
This
trip would explore the central part of the Mickelson Trail from the Mystic TH
(MP 74.7), north 11 miles to Tunnel D, and then south for three miles to the
intersection with the Deerfield Trail at the Daughtery Trailhead. 
Mickelson Trestle.
This
ride would bring us more of the easy and scenic trail, and show us all four of
the tunnels along the Mickelson Trail. This part of the Black Hills was mined
heavily for gold back in the early years and old cabins and old mine workings
are all scattered about. About two miles in we crossed a large trestle and soon
came to Tunnel C. This would be one of the more hiker friendly sections of the
Mickelson. We passed the old Standby Mine then went into Rochford, with its
“two bars and not much else.” Another three miles north is Tunnel D, which we
appreciated as much for its shade as for the scenery. 
Seeking shade in Tunnel D.
The
ride back to the Mystic TH was over in an hour, it had taken us two hours
outbound with me taking notes and mapping. Next we kept riding south on the
Mickelson wanting to cover the trail to its junction with the Deerfield Trail.
Tunnel B was at MP 73, and Tunnel A at MP 72.5. Tunnel A was 100% wood framed.
An interpretive sign indicated that the railroad line had been built in 255
days from 1890 to 1891. We joined Trail 40 at Lind Gulch, a bit before the Daugherty Gulch Trailhead at MP 71.9, where
we turned around and rode back to the Mystic TH.
Mickelson Trail Tunnel.
We
next drove to Custer State Park to stay two nights at the Grace Coolidge
Campground.
Mickelson Trail Tunnel.
7-8-06,
Centennial Trail, Mountain Bike French Creek to CSP Rd 7 & Robbers Roost
Also,
CSP Creekside Trail, 20.4 miles 
Bighorn Sheep in Cuter State Park.
I
was still looking to expand the contents of my Black Hills Guidebook, and one
way to do that was to add the gravel roads and horse trails in Custer State
Park. The park’s trail brochure offered a 15.5 mile loop with parts on the
Centennial Trail and parts on horse trails. Even with the promise of new trail
ahead Jean opted for a rest day, so I rode the loop on my own.
The
starting point was the French Creek Horse Camp Trailhead for the Centennial
Trail. I had some initial trouble, none the fault of the trail. First I left
behind much of my water, and then I came face to face with a bison on a narrow
section of trail. I remember using the bike to make a barricade between me and
the bison, and then ducking behind a small tree to let it pass. The first several
miles on the CT and then up Horse Trail 2 were steep and eroded by horses, but
the rest of the miles were pleasant riding.
After
I got back to Custer, Jean and I rode from the Grace Coolidge Campground to the
Norbeck Visitor Center on the then new Creekside Trail. This was a nice ride,
good to be off the road. The ride was 3.6 miles round trip. Maybe because the
trail was new, we did not see any signs for it.
Antelope Custer State Park.
Here's
the guidebook description I came up with after the ride. My version of the ride
covered 20 miles as I skipped some of the Wildlife Loop Road to ride Centennial
Trail instead.
Robbers
Roost Mountain Bike Trail
Description:
A difficult loop over trail and dirt roads in Custer State Park.
General
Location: Eleven miles southeast of
Custer, South Dakota.
Highlight:
A mix of heavily used horse trail and little travelled back roads in a quiet
corner of the park.
Access:
To reach the French Creek Horse Camp Trailhead drive 2.6 miles east of South
Dakota 87 on CSP Road 4 to reach a trail sign and parking area. Blue Bell
Lodge, general store, and campground are located at the junction of CSP Road 4
and South Dakota 87.
Distance:
The loop is 15.5 miles.
Maps: Trails Illustrated Black Hills Southeast and pages 28 and 30, and new.
The
Robbers Roost Trail is a good introduction to the potential for mountain biking
in Custer State Park. The entire length of trail follows the park's Horse Trail
2, which is in turn a combination of part of the Centennial Trail, old two
track roads, and gravel CSP roads 3 and 4. It is a ride perhaps suited for
intermediate riders. Beginners may find the ride too rough, while experienced
riders could find the much of the terrain too tame for their tastes. The hills
early in the ride are difficult, mainly because heavy horse traffic has left
them rocky and eroded. However, the last ten miles of the ride are over easy
roads with almost no vehicle traffic, and this is a great ride for wildlife
watching.
From the Centennial Trail French
Creek Trailhead begin this ride by heading back west on CSP Road 4 through the
horse camp on the Centennial Trail. At 0.5 mile look for the post that marks
the turn off the road and begin riding up an eroded two track road. The woods
around the trail are home to deer wild turkey, elk, and bison. At 1.4 miles
crest the hill and descend down an equally rough track to reach a paved pullout
along the Wildlife Loop Road (CSP Road 1) at 2.0 miles.
At CSP Road 1 the Robbers Roost
Trail turns left to follow CSP Road 1 on the north side on a trail still shared
with horses. Most bikers will find the road an easier alternative than the
horse trail that parallels it. At 3.6 miles turn left off of CSP Road 1 and
begin a tough climb up the horse trail which follows an old two track road
along a small draw. In this draw the trail passes the second largest known ponderosa
pine trail in the U.S. At 4.5 miles turn right out of the draw and begin an
even steeper climb. Reach the crest of the ridge at 4.9 miles and descend on a
rough track through an area recently logged as of 2006. Keep right where an old
road enters from the left to reach a signed intersection at 5.8 miles. Here you
can short cut the loop by taking the left turn to reach CSP Road 4. However,
the route ahead is much more gradual, and follows mostly maintained roads that
have not been eroded by horse traffic.
Turn right at the junction and ride
gently downhill. You are now approaching the forested edge of the Black Hills,
and are more likely to see pronghorn than the deer and elk that use the forest
for cover. Turn left onto gravel CSP Road 3 (Oak Draw Road) at 8.2 miles. Next
turn left onto CSP Road 4 (Lame Johnny Road) at 10.2 miles and begin a gentle
climb through open prairie. You ride out in the open until reaching the
junction with CSP Road 5 (Swint Road) at 12.6 miles.
Continue your gentle ascent to reach
gated dirt CSP Road 411 on the left at 13.9 miles. This is the north end of the
shortcut mentioned at the 5.8 mile mark. At 14.8 miles reach the gated west end
of CSP Road 2. There remains only a
short stretch of climbing before the trail begins its descent to close your
loop at the trailhead in 15.5 miles.
Custer State Park offers mountain
bikers two other routes: the Centennial Trail and the Grace Coolidge Walk-In
Fishing Area. Also, four horse trails
are open to bikes. If you are looking for other backroad mountain biking loops
consider riding some of the park's other gravel roads. From the Wildlife
Station on the east side of CSP Road 1 you can ride a scenic loop around roads
2, 5, 4, and 3 that covers 7.9 miles.
The Wildlife Loop Road is perhaps
the Black Hills' finest road bike ride.
The 31-mile loop packs in lots of climbs and sharp turns, but
compensates with plenty of wildlife and scenery. 
Robbers Roost Loop.
7-9-06,
Custer State Park, Grace Coolidge Trail, 4.0 miles
For
our last hike of the trip, we walked the Grace Coolidge Walk-in Fishing Trail.
This was mostly an old two track road with easy rock hops across the creek and
seven dams across the small creek. The trail ends at Center Lake up near the
Black Hills Playhouse. This was a fine easy walk with only a short steep
section on the north end to discourage family groups. 
Grace Coolidge Creek.
I
flew home via Rapid City. Jean drove back via Ames and got home on Tuesday. 
Jean at Grace Coolidge.
