Sunday, December 7, 2003

Shop Creek and the Naked Lady, Smokies 12-7-03

I’m not sure I had heard of the Naked Lady before she appeared on the SMHC schedule. Mike and Ray described her more discretely as the “Amazon of Shop Creek,” But her nickname was too good not to stick. This hike promised to be a fun adventure with long sections of relatively easy off trail hiking, and was billed as one of Mike’s “easy” off trails.

The Amazon of Shop Creek.

Our route was essentially up Shop Creek to its head, then follow Skunk Ridge down to its base at Tabcat Creek and exit to US 129 via an old road along Tabcat. The hike required a short car shuttle. With Jean and I, plus the leaders, there were only three other hikers for this seven mile loop.

For such a memorable hike it is a shame I did not take better notes. But I did take a GPS track. We must have been warned off from bringing our camera by talk of numerous stream crossings. We started with “a lot” of fords of Shop Creek, but were then able to follow an old manway to the carving. We may have passed and old home site with a chimney pile on the way. The Lady was a remarkable piece of folk art, carved rather graphically into a large beech tree facing upstream. We spent some time mulling her age, her origin, and her place here deep in the Smokies Wilderness. Based on the comparison with dates carved in other beech trees in the area Woody Brinegar in his Maryville Daily article on 10-1-87 estimated that the carving could date back to the 1910s.

From the Lady, we continued up Shop Creek to its head, where there was collapsed cabin, or more properly, a pile of logs that looked like a collapsed cabin. The 1931 park map shows this entire route so far as an old road. From the cabin site we climbed cross country 0.6 mile up to the crest of Skunk Ridge at BM 2324’. I guess we were due for a downgrade on our place names for the trip.

Skunk Ridge was relatively open, and we made good time here. We ate lunch at the modest high point of the ridge. This was my first trip to US 129 side of the park, and I’m not sure if this hike was prior to the pine beetle infestation that killed so many trees and made for difficult bushwhacking on my subsequent trips.

In Tabcat Creek there is an intersection of a pair of power lines. We spotted a group of bear poachers here, below us in the powerline right-of-way. At first they tried to warn us out of their way, but we yelled back that they were in the park and poaching. Back at the mouth of Tabcat ,their vehicles were parked by ours. Hunting is legal across the highway and one hunter claimed that’s what he was doing with his radio unit. But he got mighty upset when we started taking pictures of their vehicles and license plates and calling them into the park. After we drove back down to the Shop Creek pullout, the whole outfit roared by us with fingers flashing.

Group shot from scanned slide.

11-16-04

At this time, I was between jobs and volunteering once a week at the Smokies Backcountry Information Office at Sugarlands VC. Through this position I met some folks who knew huge amounts about the backcountry, both on and off trail. In a conversation at the volunteer’s annual picnic, the Naked Lady came up. Two of the regular volunteers, Buck and Zane had been to the carving twice, but had been unable to find her on their last visit. My visit had been less than a year previously, so I was confident that I could find her again. We made plans for a day hike that also included Cathy, a hiking partner of theirs.

Starting up Shop Creek.

The start of the hike was similar to my 2003 trip, a decent travelling manway. We had only one rough spot, where Shop Creek makes a sharp left turn to the northeast in a boggy area. We lost the old road where it moves left and north to avoid a steep narrow canyon. Instead, we walked the canyon to a small waterfall which we hadn’t seen previously. We realized our error, and retreated to the boggy area, then found the old road above us.

Above wrong way falls.

I used the GPS to find the exact location of the tree in an old clearing. This would be the first “clearing” after the old road turns to the northeast. Though I was using the GPS, I took a few pictures. Buck and Zane though took many, and gave me a CD full of their images. Buck was especially animated cuddling up to the Lady, who remained unmoved by all his attention.

Buck.

The hike was only four miles long, but seemed farther than any of us remembered.

Cathy, Zane, and Buck.

My ability to guide Buck, Zane, and Cathy to the Naked Lady gained me some unusual notoriety. One day not long after our trip a Smokies ranger called our house. I was out so Jean answered. The ranger explained who he was, and that he needed to talk to her husband whom he’d been told was the Naked Lady expert. Luckily Jean had been on the club hike knew the story. 

Detail of the Top of the carving.

The ranger was calling to find out a location for something he needed to follow up on. The person who gave the original report had only told them it was near the naked lady. After talking with the folks in the backcountry he’d been referred to me as the Naked Lady expert. I was able to provide the ranger with a map location.

Trip map.

The carving was in good shape in a photo from a 2009 GoSmokies Post. Mike Kneis found it in 2015, but the carving had deteriorated to the point of being unrecognizable by mid to late 2010s.