When I moved to Tennessee in the spring of 1993 a whole new world of outdoor opportunities opened up for me. Prime among them was the Great Smoky Mountains where just an hour away almost 900 miles of trails wind through the national park. Right from the start the idea of hiking all the trails in the park appealed to me, but mostly I wanted to experience the diversity of the park, and was less concerned with marking all the trails off my list. I was fresh off some successful trail runs with my first 50 miler in 1991, a marathon in 1992, and I wanted to try another 50 miler later in the year. Trail running looked to be the bridge I needed between my running training and desire to experience the diversity of the trails.
1993
was one of the hottest summers on record in the Tennessee Valley. Basically, a
huge high pressure sat down on the area and stayed for the whole summer. I was
used to heat from summers out west, but I was not ready for the humidity. Most
afternoons it was 90F and 90% humidity, I was sweating by the time I tied my
shoes. Work at the mine in Jefferson City started before 7, so midweek runs had
to be in the maximum heat of late afternoon. But weekend runs could happen at
any time. From Mascot I could get to the Smokies early, avoid the crowds, and
enjoy some of the coolness of early morning. Not only did the higher elevation
provide cooler and drier air, but often just running alongside the larger
streams would be enough to create a cooler microclimate.
This
trip report will include all the trail runs I did that summer and fall in
preparation for the Mountain Masochist 50 Miler in VA (Mtn Masochist). The first four descriptions
are from my brief handwritten notebooks, and the rest are copied in from my
Smokies Notes word doc file. with some copy editing and updated annotations. I
did not take a camera on these runs.
5-29-93,
Mt Cammerer via Low Gap, O&B
11.0
mi., ~2600’, 2:40, Solo
Though
I had been running in the evenings around my new place in Mascot, this was the
first time I headed to the Smokies for a long run. It took 1:15 to reach the
Cosby CG TH. I went up Low Gap Trail and across the AT to the Mt. Cammerer
Lookout in 1:25, including walking the last 15 minutes up to Low Gap. I noted
the distance from the campground was 2.9 miles vs. the 2.5 miles shown on the
park map because the trail started well below Cosby Campground. Back then the
trail was in good shape with few rocks or ruts. The AT from Sunup Knob to the
tower seemed almost flat by comparison to the climb to Low Gap. I saw about ten
groups heading for the tower. The weather was too hazy and foggy for any views.
The tower was falling apart, I described it as “very low, squat, with wooden
top and stone base.”
The
run down took 1:15, including another 10 minute hike just below Low Gap.
Despite my lack of long runs my wind was good, and I did not have any IT band
issues with my knees on the descent. This was a great way to start a new trail
running season.
2025
Notes: The newly formed Friends of the Smokies would rehab the tower in 1995. 
The Mount Cammerer Lookout Tower in 1997.
7-17-93,
Big Creek- Low Gap-AT-Chestnut Branch Loop
16.0
miles, 3400’, 3:55, Solo
This
is likely to have been my first serious training for Mountain Masochist as
Smokies training runs would now become a regular occurrence up to the October
race. My notes are brief, but to the point. I had a great day running (12+ of
the miles) most of the loop except the upper part of Low Gap (NC side) Trail
and a few short stretches near Cammerer and at the AT/Chestnut Branch junction.
Big Creek Trail looked like an old road (it still does) and had great views of
the creek. I saw one tortoise. I thought this could be an all time great
running loop.
2025
Notes: I never come back to repeat the loop, mostly because the drive is too
long from Knoxville, and Chestnut Branch is too steep for my now aged knees.
8-1-93,
Lower Mt Cammerer-AT-Cammerer-AT-Low Gap Loop
15.5
mi., 3400’+, 4:03, Solo
This
was another run out of the Cosby Campground as I continued to explore the
trails in the Cosby and Big Creek area that were closest to my place in Mascot.
It was obvious this was not the crowded side of the park. The only people I saw
all day were at Sutton’s Overlook on the Lower Mt. Cammerer Trail and at Low
Gap. In contrast to my last run at Bog Creek I didn’t have much pep on this
loop.
I
ran about 11 miles of the loop including all of LMC, and hiking the first 20
minutes of Low Gap. Despite my lack of pep, I wasn’t as tired as I’d been from
the Big Creek run. But I also recognized that this was an easier loop. I only
had one new Cosby loop left to run, before I’d need to check out new areas to
the west.
2025
Notes: Lower Mt Cammerer remains one of the better running trails in the park,
but I’ve mostly repeated the trail as an out and back run to the AT.
8-7-93,
Gabes Mtn-Maddron Bald-Snake Den Loop
17.8 mi., 3000’+, 4:13, Solo
This
is another trip where I wish I had better notes. On several of these early runs
I was mostly just trying to document the trail segments that I ran. It’s a
really tough loop, but my journal has minimal information. I ran all of Gabes
Mountain Trail and Snake Den Ridge Trail, the easy parts. I only ran the first
mile of Maddron Bald Trail, where most of the climbing is. I added the short
side trips to Henwallow Falls and the big poplars at Albright Grove, but did
not describe either. The only people I saw all day were on the lower part of
Snake Den Ridge.
2025
Notes: I noted that Maddron Bald and Albright Grove would make a great day hike
(and have done that hike several times since.)
8-14-93,
Sterling-Little Cataloochee Loop Run
16.6
miles, 4:32, 4400’, Solo
I
started at Mt Sterling Gap about 6-7 miles south of Big Creek on moderate
gravel road. Ran all the way to Sterling Ridge-Pretty Hollow Gap junction, but
didn't go to Sterling tower despite a clear day. Footway in bad shape on the rest of the loop
due to erosion from heavy horse traffic, which is apparently common around
Cataloochee. Saw one group of 3 horsemen
but no other hikers. Sterling Ridge
trails are good for running, but not especially scenic. Little Cataloochee Valley
is very pretty with one old church which is still kept up. Road access to the
church is along the lower part of the Little Cataloochee Trail. I thought I was lost while on this road, but
eventually came to a trail sign where I got my bearings. I don't recommend running any more in this
area because of the bad trail erosion, I doubt if I ran more than half of this
loop.
2025
Notes: Loop is CCW on the Mt Sterling-Mt Sterling Ridge-Pretty Hollow
Gap-Little Cataloochee-Long Bunk. I haven’t repeated this loop because of
continued damage to the Pretty Hollow Gap Trail by horses. This route was an
obvious extension of trails to explore after Cosby.
8-28-93,
Russell Field/Spence Field Loop Run from Cades Cove
14.6
miles, 3300’, No Time, solo ran about 6
Approx.
1hr 40 minute drive from Mascot to Cades Cove via Sugarlands. There was a huge crowd at the Cades Cove
Picnic area, and all I wanted to do was leave as soon as possible. The Anthony Creek Trail was nice, and I ran
part of it. My big surprise was seeing a bear. I had glanced up the trail just
as it was crossing the trail through a gap in the trees. I couldn't tell where
it had gone from the trail. The bear was small, but still larger than most any
dog. No crowds on the trail to Russell Field. The shelter there smelled of
skunks and horse shit, not a place I'd like to spend the night. Ran part of the AT, but was surprised at how
much of a climb it is from Russell to Spence Field. Lots of folks around Spence Field, but I left
them as soon as I got onto Bote Mtn. Road.
Ran from Spence Field down to Cades Cove Road. Below the junction with Anthony Creek Trail,
Bote Mtn. remains a road. Lead Cove is a nice foot trail, but Crib Gap is badly
eroded, overused by horses and very close to the highway. There are probably more good lowland loops
here that would be worth exploring once the weather cools and the crowds thin
out.
2025
Notes: This route was a big change in the crowds between Cosby and Big Creek
vs. Cades Cove, the busiest part of the park. Loop was up Anthony Creek and
Ledbetter Ridge, over on the AT, down Bote Mtn. and Lead Cove, then over on
Crib Gap. Spence-Russell is a popular running loop, but these days it is a hike
up, run down event for me.
9-19-93,
Camel Gap Loop Run from Cosby
18
miles, 4850’, about 5 hours, solo, ran about 10
I
was able to run all the way to the AT on the Low Gap Trail. Lots of virgin forest on this trail. The upper part of the NC side of Low Gap is
too rough to run all of it, but is still a nice walk. Big Creek is a road to the end, then there is
the world's longest 0.2 mile to the next trail junction. Camel Gap is a beautiful trail with an easy
grade until it leaves Big Creek and begins a steady climb to the ridge. Some nice second growth in here. Ran most of the way to the end of the creek
and then sort of ran out of gas. Even
the climb on the AT is slow but steady.
Saw a few folks on the descent down Snake Den Trail. This is an easy trail to run down, the only
bad footing is at the very top. Try the
20 mile Miry-Greenbriar loop from Tremont next?
2025
Notes: Route is Cosby up and over Low Gap to Big Creek, up Camel Gap Tr to the
AT, over on AT, and then down Snake Den back to Cosby. This would be my first
trail run with two climbs up to the AT. Being able to run all the way from
Cosby to Low Gap shows some results from my previous training.
9-25-93, Lynn Camp Prong Loop
from Tremont Run
16.1
miles, 2800’, about 31/2 hours, Solo
An
inauspicious beginning for this trip. As I brushed my teeth before leaving I
was startled by the sound of heavy rain on the roof of the house. By the time I arrived at Tremont the rain had
stopped, but the sky showed no signs of clearing. I followed Middle Prong Trail to Panther
Creek to Jakes Gap to Campsite 28 and returned via Middle Prong. There is a still drivable jeep road all the
way from Tremont to Campsite 28. Didn't see the side roads shown on the Trails
Illustrated map or the old manways on the 1972 Sierra Club map. Ran all but the last mile or so of the
Panther Creek Trail, but this section is runnable if you're determined
enough. The trails are in good shape
except for some mud holes on the west side of the Lynn Camp Prong Trail. Saw many horses and one backpacker. A few good views from a cleared area on Miry
Ridge. Originally planned to make a
longer loop via the AT but was scared off by the weather and new running
shoes. A great intro trail run because
of easy grades and long downhills. Almost all runnable, partly old road. Campsite 26 is just north of the junction of
Lynn Camp Prong and Miry Ridge and looks interesting. CS 28 probably receives
too much horse traffic. Too bad mountain
bikes can't ride the old road to CS 28.
2025
Notes: 2800’ climb. This is the classic “lasso” loop from Upper Tremont around
the AT and Miry Ridge.
10-9-93 Brushy Mountain-Grapeyard Loop Run
Solo,
22.7 miles, 4450’, about 8 hours
Writing
this a week late, so some details are probably already forgotten. Started at the Grapeyard Ridge Trailhead and
then ran 1.0 mi. to the Brushy Mountain Trailhead. Brushy Mtn. is an old road for 1.0 miles, I didn't
see the SMHC cabin. The trail begins a
long climb from here, I only ran about the first mile. I knew by Trillium Gap that I was in for a
long slow day, but I still took the side trail to Brushy Mtn. There were no views-it was overcast with
intermittent showers all day- but the top of Brushy Mtn. is a beautiful heath
bald that is worth the trip. I was able
to run all the way down to the Roaring Fork Road and much of the section (not
all 2.4 miles) to the Baskins Creek Trail.
The Trillium Gap Trail was the only one where I saw many people.
Baskin
Creek is a nice woods walk and the side trail to the falls is worthwhile. As I walked along the small stream that feeds
the falls I prepared myself for disappointment, but was surprised by the falls
generated but a very low stream flow. I
had trouble finding the start of the Grapeyard Ridge Trail. There are no markers, but the trail begins
beyond an old group of farm buildings. I
ran some of Grapeyard Ridge Trail, but was tired enough that I was barely
shuffling along. Still, this trail is
nice in the same way as Baskin Creek. A
nice forest with plenty of solitude and good solid trail. This entire loop does not appear overused,
and the footway is excellent. I made it
back to the car a little disappointed with my time and effort, but it was my
longest loop to date, and I had at least survived. Ran about 10.5.
2025
Notes; Start was in Greenbrier, and loop was CW? 4450’ climb estimate
1993
Trail Run Summary,
Dist. Vert Time
Cammerer
v Low Gap O&B 11.0 2600’ 2:40
Big
Creek-Low Gap Loop 16.0 2400’ 3:55
Lower
Mt Cam-AT Loop 15.5 3400’ 4:03
Gabes
Mtn-Snake Den Loop 17.8 3000’ 4:13
Sterling-Little
Cat Loop 16.6 4400’ 4:30
Spence-Russell
Loop 14.6 3300’ NT
Camel
Gap Loop 18.0 4850’ 5:00
Lynn
Camp Prong Loop 16.1 2800’ 3:30
Brushy-Grapeyard
Loop 22.7 4450’ 8:00
Looking
at this summary 30 years later a couple of things stand out. First, that’s a
great effort to explore all the runnable loops on the east side of the park
around Cosby and Big Creek. The runs were harder than the stats show as I was
struggling to adapt to the especially hot and humid summer of ’93. From a
training perspective, these are all long, tough loops, each with at least one
climb to, or near, the Appalachian Trail. Many of the loops were tough enough
that I did not try them a second time.
However,
these weren’t enough to do well at Mountain Masochist. There is only one
20-miler in the group and none of the runs had over 5000’ feet of climbing.
This regimen wasn’t enough to ward off the IT band pain that surfaced only a
third the way into the race. Luckily my hiking was strong and fast, and I was
able to slip in under the cutoff.
My
running would drop off Mountain Masochist. I wouldn’t run a major race in 1994,
instead I tried the 1995 Smoky Mountain (road) Marathon the next spring. There
would be a few more years without major races, but my running would reignite in
1998 with a 50K at Holiday Lake, and the discovery of the convenience of
running in the Townsend Wye/ Tremont area of the Smokies.
