Saturday, October 27, 1990

Summit Ridge and Elk Mountain WY, Bike and Hike, 10-27-90

This ride follows a route from the Horning and Marriot book “Mountain Bikers Guide to the Black Hills.” Summit Ridge sits on the southwest flank of the Black Hills, just off the SD-WY state line, and slightly north of the Pennington/Custer county line. The southwest part of the hills is its emptiest quarter. All my visits to this area were done solo, and I never saw another person on my travels there.

I drove in the long way from Lead via BHNF 117 and 265, both of which were in good gravel roads. The ride took an hour and a half, and ended up starting just a few miles east of Newcastle, WY. It was a pretty drive, and I only saw two cars after leaving the highway. I parked on road 265 just a few miles north of the lookout to ride a counterclockwise loop, mostly in Wyoming. The ride started through a logging area on a rough road. After about ¾ of a mile I got a flat, but luckily I had a spare tube to fix it. Beyond the state line, I couldn’t follow the road, but still ended up in a grassy area near the old buildings described on the guide.

Summit Ridge, WY Mountain Bike Loop.

Despite this inauspicious start, I was able to follow “an obscure grassy two track” that led to a better road heading south. The next section was fun, easy riding. I was surprised at how rugged the area was. I was on the inside edge of the Racetrack Valley, with the harder central core of the hills to the east, and the valley of the soft Spearfish Formation to the west.

I encountered one gate marked “No Trespassing”, but was too far around the loop to turn back. I next reached the Hoodoos and began the climb back into the main body of the Black Hills. I ended up pushing my bike up much of this steep grade. Kudos to the guidebook authors for their stamina! Approaching the state line was an older logging area, but these logging roads were easier to follow. I just stayed on the main road, and rode up the main draw to reach the tower. I got off the guidebook route, but the ride instructions indicated that this area was complex even for the authors.

The Summit Ridge Tower is a narrow steel structure barely rising out of the trees. I was stripped down to shorts and T-shirt by then and the wind was uncomfortably cool. I could see the tower at Elk Mountain to the south, and had views east and west across the flanks of the hills. Some of the ruggedest areas seemed to be around Boles Canyon, part of the route I’d driven to the start.

I was surprised to find this part of the hills so pretty. Outside of the logging areas, the woods were open, and there was a lot of relief. There were several old structures that I passed without exploring to liven up the ride for the more curious. It was drier than the northern hills, and would be a good option for fall and spring when other areas were likely to be wet.

The rest of the ride was an easy 1.6 miles on the BHNF road down to the start. I saw no people or bike tracks the entire time. The ride measured at 11.1 miles and took me about three hours, including the time taken to change my flat. Three hours of riding for three hours of driving isn’t a great tradeoff, so this was a ride I liked, but never chose to repeat. Maybe a long, narrow BHNF 117-265-264 loop would have been a better option.

Currently (2023) the former Summit Ridge Lookout Cabin is the only cabin available for rent by the Black Hills National Forest, though availability is limited. The primitive  cabin is eligible for listing on the National Register of Historic Places. See: (Link) 

Summit Ridge Fire Tower from BHNF website.

Elk Mountain Hike, Solo, 10-27-90

After the bike ride was over I was still feeling ambitious, and knew I wouldn’t be this close to Elk Mountain and its tower anytime soon. So, I headed south to US 16, found the sliver of BHNF land cutting the road, and parked. My plan was climbing straight cross country up to the tower, rather than following its long approach road from the south.

Once off the road and into the trees I was in for a rude surprise. Almost the entire slope had been selectively logged, and I was forced to wade through hip deep slash or walk up old skidder trails. The ascent was steep, covered about 1,000 feet in a mile, and took 48 minutes. The tower is identical to the steel structure on Summit Ridge, and even has a similar cabin below it. I liked the view from Elk Mountain better. It extended north to Summit Ridge, south along Elk Mountain and northeast into the rugged canyons. The light was flat and accentuated the topography perfectly, but I did not have my camera. From the tower I walked west to the very slightly higher true summit, which was being used as a workstation by the loggers. I headed down slightly north of my ascent route, but left no notes regarding any improvements on that line. Back at the car, I estimated two hours and 3.5 miles for the trip.

Elk Mountain Fire Tower Hike.

According to the BHNF, the tower and cabin were built sometime between 1939-1941. It is one of only five active towers in the forest as of 2023. This area is fire prone with the Elk Mountain Fire burning 13,000 acres in  2001, and the 2011 WhoopUp Fire burning another 7500. Besides the usual deer and antelope, there are elk and bighorn sheep in the area. 

Elk Mountain Tower from BHNF website.

For more on fire towers in the Black Hills visit: SDPB Fire Towers