Saturday, October 31, 1987

Tinton & Cement Ridge Mountain Bike Ride, 10-31-87

During my first summer of mountain biking in the Black Hills I was choosing routes based on the BHNF or USGS topo maps, or on what little local knowledge I’d gathered. That changed sometime in the fall with our discovery of “A Mountain Biker’s Guide to the Black Hills, South Dakota and Wyoming” by Horning and Marriot. This self-published guide was a marvel of efficiency. Each ride was described on a single page and was illustrated on the reverse with a hand drawn route on top of a USGS topo base. The authors had clearly done a huge amount of riding covering the entire Black Hills. The authors were also highly skilled, as we discovered trying to duplicate their steep technical climbs, or follow their sometimes obscure routes through the meadows and forests.

The book had a 1987 publication date so the information was fresh, and it gave us riding ideas it would have taken years to develop on our own. There was plenty of background information on biking and a section on some easier rides, but the guts of the book was the detailed description of 28 rides covering every corner of he range. Over my six years in the hills, I’d finish 12 of those trips and ride parts of another six. Most of the other rides were in distal parts of the southern hills, or coincided with established trails that I’d hike on foot. But especially in the early stages of my riding, the guide was the bests source of riding ideas.

The Tinton/Cement Ridge ride was likely the first time we used the guide to plan our ride. Tinton is an old mining town in the northwest part of the Black Hills, west of Spearfish Canyon. Our route would be 18 mile loop, extending west into Wyoming, and topping out at the Cement Ridge Fire tower. Bob and Dick joined me for the ride.

Tinton/Cement Ridge mountain bike route, 1987

It was an hour drive from Lead to the start at Beaver Crossing. We started riding west on well-maintained BNHF 222. At the junction with BHNF 101 we turned right and headed north for the Tinton townsite. We rode through the ghost town of Tinton, then to an old building on the Wyoming side used as a landmark by our guidebook. We reached the building in Mallory Gulch after about an hour of riding. We had a tough descent to the bottom of the gulch before we reached a better road near a small shack. Next, we started the harder riding, climbing south along the upper reaches of Sand Creek.

Tinton has been actively prospected for both gold and rare earth elements, and we rode through active drilling being done by Moycorp on the Caldak group of claims. We found the “town” of Welcome to be a single cabin owned by Molycorp.

Cement Ridge Tower, 1987.

After about 2:30, and one thousand feet of climbing, we reached the tower on Cement Ridge. To the northwest were views of Sundance Mountain and the Bearlodge Mountains. Inyan Kara sat to our west, and Crow Peak loomed to the northeast.  

My Diamond Back Ascent EX near Cement Ridge.

After enjoying the hard earned views, we descended down BHNF 867, which became BHNF 103 as we crossed back into South Dakota. We stopped at the next junction for lunch then rode east on a grassy road shown only on our mountain biking guide. The guide would go on to lead us astray on several grassy “roads”, but this was one time when the route was easy to follow, at least to the next junction. Here we went left instead of right and ended up on BHNF 222 near Sanger Ranch. But it was just a quick trip down to Beaver Creek, where we picked up the trail. Most of the return route to Beaver Crossing was part of Snowmobile Trail #3. We would often find the snowmobile trails better marked than the BHNF roads. The ride took five hours for 18 miles, and we saw no one else the entire time.

The original Cement Ridge Fire Lookout was built between 1911 and 1913 as part of a wave of tower construction following the 1910 Great Fire which burned three million acres of northern Idaho and Montana. Originally, it was a one-room log cabin with a shingle roof. In 1921, a crow’s nest with a glassed-in house was constructed. The crow’s nest was removed in the spring of 1940 and replaced by the current lookout built by the Civilian Conservation Corps in 1941. The lookout was refurbished in 1974, and was listed on the National Historic Lookout Register on December 30, 1993.It is one of only five active fire towers remaining in the Black Hills.

10-2-92, Cement Ridge Run, 5 miles

I would make only one more trip to Cement Ridge. In late 1992 I was working hard on the first edition of my Black Hills trail guide. A small part of the guide was an appendix on the important summits in the Black Hills and wanted another look at Cement Ridge. For this trip I drove up BHNF 222 and parked near the state line at the head of Potato Creek. I ran south, then followed BHNF 103, then 867 up to the tower. Surprisingly, the tower was staffed, and I learned that on exceptionally clear days the Bighorns Mountain were visible to the west. I could see Warren Peak, the Bearlodge Mountains, and Inyan Kara to the west, and Crow Peak, Spearfish Peak, Mt. Roosevelt, Old Baldy, and Terry Peak to the east. The entire area seemed grazed by cattle, though I still saw a half dozen deer. The South Dakota side was being marked for a timber sale. My notes show times of 27:50 for the climb and 22:30 for the descent on the 5 mile round trip run.

1192 Cement Ridge run route in yellow.

Saturday, October 17, 1987

Veterans Lookout, Mountain Bike Ride, 10-17-87

Not long after I started mountain biking I began using the BHNF map to find new routes to explore. There seemed to be an unlimited supply of old roads, and all sorts of interesting places to see. I was finding rides to the tops of many of the higher summits, and realized that this exploring could be a fun, long-term project worth documenting. At the time I was just collecting my trip notes on the back of the copies of the USGS topo maps that I was using for my field maps. Taking a tip from my geology field work, I started recording my trips in a dedicated field notebook. This trip would be the first notebook entry in a series that now includes 34 volumes.

The plan for this trip would be to start in the town of Galena, ride east on BHNF Road 170, and then ride a clockwise loop of BHNF 170, 135 (now FH 26, the Vanocker Canyon Road), and 541, including a side trip to the Veterans Lookout Tower. This ride would explore a nearby corner of the hills still new to me, and reach another lookout tower for the first time.

Route map for Veterans Lookout MB Ride.

I started the ride at the end of the county maintenance on the Galena Road. From the townsite, I headed east and uphill on BHNF 170. At the crest of the hill leaving town there was a spur road leading right, and the road surface improved a bit. The rest was easy riding downhill to the junction with BHNF 180, where the loop portion would start. A sign here indicated that it was two miles back to Galena and six miles ahead to Sturgis. 

BHNF 170 to the east was closed to vehicles, and I ended up riding through a road reconstruction area. I passed side roads leading north, then south, before exiting the work zone. At the intersection with BHNF 135, after 45 minutes of riding, a sign indicated it was four miles east to Sturgis and thirteen miles south to Nemo.

Based on maps from more recent visits, it appears BHNF 135 of this era was replaced by newer Forest Highway 26, aka the Vanocker Canyon Road. Old BHNF 135 followed the road shown on the USGS topo, while newer FH 26 as mapped by GPS in 2007 follows a route generally a bit to the west.

Here the climb to the lookout tower began. Towards the top the road was steep and rocky, probably the reason for its eventual relocation. At the top of the climb was the intersection with BHNF 613 leading east, with the tower spur road turning even more sharply left. The rocky summit looked to be Paha Sapa Formation limestone. There was a relay tower and a small building. I could see west to Terry Peak and Deer Mountain with their distinctive ski runs, and north across the prairie to Bear Butte. After taking pictures I rode back down to BHNF 135.

The next junction with BHNF 168 was signed three miles to Bethlehem Cave and six miles to Piedmont, I went straight on 135 to pass a house on the right. Then I needed to portage the bike cross country around some construction, and up to what I hoped was BHNF 536. A hairpin switchback to the right put me back on better maintained BHNF 541, though there were no signs for either of these roads.

The better road crested a gentle divide. On the divide I made the right choice by bearing left at a “Y” junction onto the fainter road, but luckily correct, road. I wasn’t so lucky at the next junction, and kept straight and west for an extra mile before reaching BHNF 180, where I realized I was off course. I rode back to the last junction, headed north this time, and enjoyed a gently downhill two mile ride on lesser used BHNF 541. This time I hit BHNF 180 near its junction with BHNF 170 to close my loop as planned.

My “portage” exiting BHNF 135, and my unintended side trip to BHNF 180 helped teach the lessons that not all routes that look good on the map are good on the ground, and that the better looking road is rarely the correct one. My navigation in the hills would improve with time and practice, but there would always be wrong turns out there to fool the hasty, fatigued, or inattentive biker.

From the 180/170 junction I retraced my route back to Galena. Back then I rarely carried my camera on bike trips to lessen its exposure to the jarring of a bumpy ride, but this time I had the camera and stopped just outside of town for a picture of the Double Rainbow headframe. The mine hoist house was also still standing. Total ride time for about 19 miles was 2:35.

Headframe of the Double Rainbow Mine near Galena, South Dakota